Yep, I saw that post, skipped through the thread, but I am not prepared to do all this work. For now I'll just replace the clutch with Barnett, and I should be good, hopefully it outlasts my original clutch by a good margin.

OCH, my intent was not for you to do the DR hub mod.  I thought the info on clutch pushrod setup, spring pressure & travel, and release cam upgrade and testing would be useful to you.

As I recall, you mentioned that your clutch started slipping at very low mileage.  That sounds unusual.  You also don't sound like you are the type that runs the guts out of a motorcycle.  That seems inconsistent with a slipping clutch problem at low mileage.  So, I suspect your slippage was due to either incorrect adjustment, or some issue with oil.

As the friction plates wear, the release plate moves outward, toward the release cam.  That moves the pushrod closer to the cam, and in turn gobbles up any free play in the release mechanism.  That's why the pushrods come in various lengths.  As time goes on, there will be no more free play and the release mechanism will prevent the clutch from locking up.  At that point, you need to install a shorter pushrod.  So, you install a shorter pushrod to re-center the release arm between the marks on the engine case.  I believe my old post provides the gory details on that particular adjustment.

Replaced the clutch with the Barnett kit. No more slipping, but because the springs are longer and firmed it takes more effort to pull in the clutch lever, more effort to switch gears, and its virtually impossible to shift into neutral.

och wrote on 05/18/23 at 17:53:39:



Och did you replace the clutch cable as well? If you did make sure you lubricate it -- when I put my Barnett kit in with springs it was very hard to actuate the clutch untill I remembered I needed to lubricate my new cable!

I have. relatively new stainless braided clutch cable, its working fine.

I notice when the engine is running and hot, its impossible to find neutral - the shifter takes more effort to switch 1-2 and 2-1 than it used to, and it just skips neutral. When the engine is off and cold, finding neutral is very easy.

"Since I am replacing all the springs and plates, I imagine I should stay with the original length pushrod, which is what I intend to do."

You should base your pushrod selection on the release arm position; nothing else, just the position of the release arm.  Your clutch is dragging.  Did you check the release arm position?

Just place a large crescent wrench on the release arm and let the weight of the wrench take all the free play out of the release mechanism.  Don't push on the wrench, just let the weight of the wrench do the work.  The release arm should be centered in between the raised marks on the engine case.  If the release arm is too low, you need a shorter pushrod.  If the release arm is too high, you need a longer pushrod.  Note that as the clutch wears the release arm position will move lower.

Did you verify that all the steel plates are flat?  Warped steel plates cause the clutch to drag.  You need to check them on a surface plate.