intruder shocks is what you want, tall and soft.

Dave,

Read my suspension thread. The shock discussion starts at post #76.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1421689358/75

Post #3 in this thread talks about shock options.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1498156004

You will not find a compliant ride with any OEM shock. They are garbage. At the very least seek out a gas (N2) shock.

How are y'all keeping the belt loose enough with taller shocks?  Especially those also running the bigger Kawa front pulley?  And our belts tighten we sit on the bike or load the suspension, right?

Tocsik wrote on 10/05/21 at 11:24:14:


The belt gets looser with taller shocks....as the swing arm is pulled out of being horizontal.  So...you need to allow the belt to be looser when you adjust it with the the bike leaning on the side stand.....it will tighten when you sit on the bike or hit bumps.  I run my belt pretty darn loose with the 13.5" long shocks on the Cafe and I have a modified engine - no belt problems yet.

I suggest that if you put on taller shocks.....you might just leave the belt adjustment where it was with the shorter shocks.

Thanks to all for the comments & suggestions.  Sorry I didn’t respond sooner but I had a lot to digest.

Versy, which Intruder shocks, the VS800 or the VS1400.  I suspect the 800.  New VS800 shocks run about $700 bucks; eBay has some for very reasonable prices but I’m not too keen on used shock absorbers.  I guess ya gotta keep your options open.  How long are the Intruder shocks?

Hiko, I googled the White shocks (SA0029014).  Looks like I would have to procure those through an outlet in NZ or Aus.  The NZ exchange rate makes those a real bargain provided the shipping to Hawaii isn’t too awful expensive.  I can’t find any info on the spring rate, length, etc.  Do you happen to know what the spring rate is?

Gary, exceedingly good posts on the suspension.  My compliments.  I have some questions for you.

You set the free sag on the forks at 10mm, which is 8% of the 127mm travel.  Is it OK to also set the free sag on the rear shocks to 8% of the travel?  For instance, the stock rear wheel travel is exactly 2.69”.  That would work out to  free sag = .215” (5.5mm), very close to your estimate.  Once I replace the rear shocks the wheel travel should increase so I want to know if 8% is a good target.

I’m baffled on the free sag guidance, if less than recommended you need heavier spring, if more than recommended you need a lighter spring.  That seems counterintuitive.  I saw similar guidance on an Aussie website.  I’m missing something.  Can you elaborate?

Please tell me if I have the procedure correct.  Step 1, determine baseline.  Step 2, establish and set correct race sag for given travel.  Step 3, check free sag to verify proper spring rate.

Tocsik & Dave, I agree that the belt tension might be a problem and I think Dave’s suggestion to stick with the adjustment established with stock shocks is a good suggestion.  I simulated geometry with stock shocks (10.6” eye-to-eye), 11” shocks, 11.5” shocks, and 12” shocks.  With 12” suspenders that belt is mighty loose.  I don’t know how folks run it with 13” shocks.

Ohiomoto, I tried to get more info on the Hagen shocks.   Dime City Cycle seems to sell them, but their website doesn’t provide any specifics.  Looks to me like I could probably call them and see what they can provided.  Currently, it doesn’t look like they have any 11” or 11.5”, and they have no info on spring rates.  

Even with 11” shocks that lower guard gets might close to the pulley.

We all have our own taste, but I personally think the thing starts getting ugly past 11.5” shocks.  It starts looking like a dirt bike.  Here’s what the fender clearance looks like with 12” suspenders.