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Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly (Read 248 times)
DragBikeMike
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Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
08/30/20 at 01:22:54
 
This is the fifth in a series of reports outlining my big bore engine project.  Part 1 covered the cylinder.  Part 2 covered the cylinder head.  Part 3 covered the head cover.   Part 4 covered the crankcase.  If you haven’t read Parts 1, 2, 3 or 4 you can find them here.

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Part 5 covers Assembly.  All the major components are ready to be assembled.  The cylinder has been bored out.  The cylinder head has been ported to my Stage III specs.  Larger intake valves have been installed along with appropriate valve springs.  The head cover has been modified to improve oiling.  The crankcase has been disassembled, inspected and re-sealed.  It’s time to assemble the parts and install the new monster in my Savage.

Let’s get started.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #1 - 08/30/20 at 01:24:12
 
Before installing the piston & cylinder, the piston rings need to have their gaps checked.  If the gaps are too small, the ring will bind in the cylinder when it heats up.  A gap that is too large may cause a bit of leakage, but a gap that is too small can destroy your engine.  Wiseco recommends gaps based on application.  For my application I chose “Street – Moderate Turbo/Nitrous”.  That seemed reasonable to me.  I could have selected “High – Performance Street/Strip” but I decided to be safe and give it that little extra gap.  For my selected application, the specified gap for the top ring is .0050” for inch of bore diameter.  With a 3.819” bore diameter that works out to .019” gap.  The specified gap for the second ring is .0055” per inch of bore diameter.  That works out to .021”.

Use a feeler gage to check the gap.  The ring must be positioned square in the bore.  I made this tool from an ABS pipe fitting.  It positions the ring exactly ½” down the bore and ensures the ring is square (1/2” down the bore at all points around the circumference of the ring).  The ring must be square to get an accurate measurement.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #2 - 08/30/20 at 01:24:57
 
You insert the ring into the bore and then push it with the tool until the shoulder on the tool hits the top of the cylinder.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #3 - 08/30/20 at 01:25:49
 
Then use feeler gages to check the gap.  I started with the second ring.  It was a bit tight.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #4 - 08/30/20 at 01:26:57
 
So, I held the ring gently in a machinist’s vice and used abrasive paper wrapped around a ¼” tool bit to remove material from one side of the gap.  Take care to follow the existing butt such that when the ring is installed in the cylinder the butts are parallel.  I only had to remove a few thousandths of an inch to get this 2nd ring close to perfect.  Check all the edges of the butt and verify that there are no burrs.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #5 - 08/30/20 at 01:27:43
 
Note how the butts are parallel.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #6 - 08/30/20 at 01:28:33
 
Use the same process for the top ring.  When I was finished, the top ring gap was .020” and the 2nd ring gap was .022”.  The butts were parallel.   Note the letter “N” on the top ring.  When the ring is installed on the piston, that marking must face up.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #7 - 08/30/20 at 01:29:32
 
Can you see any markings on the 2nd ring?  It’s there.  Be careful, it’s very difficult to see.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #8 - 08/30/20 at 01:30:14
 
You have to get the ring at just the right angle and have just the right amount of light.  Like the top ring, the “N” must face up.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #9 - 08/30/20 at 01:31:18
 
While on the subject of markings, see this arrow on the top of the piston?  It must face forward when the piston is installed on the rod.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #10 - 08/30/20 at 01:31:57
 
The Wiseco kit uses a three-piece oil ring.  The wavy thing is called an expander, and the two rings are referred to as scrapers or rails.  Their gap should be a minimum of .010”.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #11 - 08/30/20 at 01:32:44
 
The Wiseco expander has this interesting wire running through it.  Never seen one like this before.  I suspect the wire is intended to keep you from overlapping the butts.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #12 - 08/30/20 at 01:33:34
 
You install the oil ring assembly first.  Start by gently opening the expander just enough to get it over the piston and into the lowest groove.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #13 - 08/30/20 at 01:34:17
 
Then install a scraper ring in the lower side of the expander, making sure that the butt of the scraper ring and the butt of the expander do not line up.  Try to keep the butts at least 30° apart.  I like to use a method where I sort of spiral the flexible scraper ring down around the piston.  Don’t overdo it, you don’t want to bend or deform the ring.
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Re: Big Bore Engine - Part 5 - Assembly
Reply #14 - 08/30/20 at 01:35:08
 
Once the lower scraper ring is in place, make sure that it is seated under the expander and the ring & expander are free to move in the groove.
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