Changed the front brake pads today and I really let them get too worn.  Had a devil of a time getting the pin to go through the hole in the inner brake pad when putting the new ones on.  Anyone have tips on that for future?

And what's the minimum thickness on the rotor before it should be replaced?  I sanded it a bit with 500 grit while the rotor was pulled away but it still doesn't feel great and I know that can eat pads.  Measures about 0.144 - 0.147 inches (3.66 - 3.73 mm).  Lastly, where's a good place to source a replacement rotor?  I see 'em on fleabay for about 170.  Looks like EBC part # MD3017LS?

Asking rather than researching since I had to go to work and we got a clinic full of babies today so my time is limited.  Thanks team.

How much roughness would you guys tolerate in your front rotor?  
It's like, totally groovy, man.  Not rough, but kinda like a vinyl album, but deeper.
Rode it to work on back roads this morning to be gentle on the new pads and it fells much better, but concerned about the grooves and overall thinness of the rotor.  
Had time to do a little reading and saw posts from a few years back where several high profile members here said to keep going with it unless it feels warped.  I don't feel any pulsing.

I think there are several reasons for the minimum thickness specification (4.0 mm).

The obvious reason is you don't want the rotor to get so thin that it breaks.

Another reason you don't want it under 4.0 mm is resonance.  The thinner it gets the more it resonates.  It already tends to squeak & squeal a bit, that will only get worse as it gets thinner.

You also should be concerned about caliper extension.  As the rotor thins the piston in the caliper has to extend farther to bring the pads in contact with the rotor.  Combined with pad wear, the piston extension may start to exceed reasonable limits.  Excessive extension could result in cocking and binding.

You can minimize the extension by changing pads well before they reach their wear limit.

Thanks for the replies.  I'm checking with Versy to see if he still has any rotors from the Ryca takeoffs he mentioned in the Marketplace.

I'm seeing an EBC rotor listed as a fitment for our bike (https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/control-brakes/brake-rotors/ebc-...).  Anyone using that?

this is the one I'd get...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Suzuki-LS650-Savage-S193-1-front-brake-rotor-di...

Gary_in_NJ wrote on 05/20/20 at 12:42:37:


IDK ,, everything has wear limits, safety requirements,, and the front brake is The single most safety feature..
A series of hard braking moments and a dash through a wet spot in the street, quenching that rotor,, that is the recipe for a warp.. at what wear point is it likely to crack? I have no idea..
There's some really smart guys here, maybe someone knows enough about metals to Splain us something..


The grooves from letting it go too long are concentric, once the pads are cut to fit in the grooves, you have more braking surface area.
The best brakes on anything I had was 78 Gran Prix , I let the pads cut deep, like , everyone said replace them, I bought cheap pads, and they polished the rotors,, then put good ones on..
Didn't take too long for the pads to adopt the contours,, and, boy , that thing stopped,, the Michelins didn't hurt.

But, that's a car, cast iron, not a bike,, and you're well below the wear limit it seems.. You probably should be shopping around, I would, but I would not park my bike over it.
You have a disk
That's a pattern
No idea what material to use
But I wonder what having  a water jet cutter ..

I am embarrassed to admit that I quoted my disc thickness incorrectly.

My disc is just about factory thickness and has very little grooving. I can't explain what I thought I measured? A senior moment I suppose.

norm92de wrote on 05/21/20 at 09:12:13:


Hey, what is the factory thickness?  Will help me if I buy used.
Thanks.