SuzukiSavage.com - Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers

RedBronco

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Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers
04/15/20 at 09:39:08

If I decided to paint the Clustch cover and the left side (started gear Cover), with black Semi Gloss rattle can paint.

Do I need a high Temp paint for those covers? Or will standard Krylon with a primer prior handle the heat temps there?

My bike is a budget resto. Too much effort t would need to be made to polish these overs from years of S. Florida element neglect.

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Fast 650

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Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers
Reply #1 - 04/15/20 at 10:35:36

If the covers look that bad it will take a lot of sanding to get them ready for paint. If you have to sand them that much, get a palm sander. Start with coarse grit for the really bad spots, and work your way up to wet sanding with 400 or 600 grit. Now your covers should be slick enough to paint. They are also slick enough to polish at this point.

A buffing pad in a drill and some Mothers will polish them up in about the same amount of time as masking and painting them. Your choice at this point.

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verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28780 L.A. California Gender:	Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers Reply #2 - 04/15/20 at 10:42:03 save yourself a lot of time and effort, strip'm with aircraft stripper.
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RedBronco YaBB Newbies Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 14	Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers Reply #3 - 04/15/20 at 10:45:20 verslagen1 wrote on 04/15/20 at 10:42:03: save yourself a lot of time and effort, strip'm with aircraft stripper. What am I stripping off? I already have them sanded pretty smooth. Just was looking for advice on painting the covers and if I need heat resistant paint
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Fast 650

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Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers
Reply #4 - 04/15/20 at 11:08:47

You shouldn't need a high temp paint, the covers won't get that hot. I have had good results with the Duplicolor engine paint with ceramic in the past. The gloss black looks nice on engine if you want the blacked out engine that the later models used.

The caveat is that paint gets scuffed and scratched, requiring that same sanding and painting process to be repeated in the future. Polishing is much easier than sanding and painting again.

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batman Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 3806 osceola new york Gender:	Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers Reply #5 - 04/15/20 at 13:02:31 If you don't want black due to having silver center cases ,you could try using paint for wheels, it comes in different shades some closely resembling chrome.
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Dennisgb Full Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 176 Maplewood MN Gender:	Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers Reply #6 - 04/15/20 at 15:59:41 I’ve had excellent results with VHT cast aluminum engine paint. Very durable and comes in 3 shades for aluminum. https://repaintsupply.com/vht-sp995-cast-aluminum-engine-paint-p1424.html?utm_so urce=google-shopping&utm_medium=organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5_mJw8Pr6AIVRF8NCh1jmw YqEAQYAyABEgKoMvD_BwE
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eau de sauvage

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Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers
Reply #7 - 04/15/20 at 18:25:32

Even if you don't need a hi temp paint, why not use it anyway seeing as it does get pretty warm. It's not like spray on ceramic paints are expensive. Only about $20 a can or less. I use it to paint the SS exhaust on my GS. Looks great, I use a matt black but when the full sun hits it you can see some very tiny coloured speckles.

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Dave

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Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers
Reply #8 - 04/16/20 at 03:33:01

A big problem with using most generic spray paint, is they are not resistant to fuel. If you spill fuel on them, or your fuel cap leaks fuel after a fill up and it drips on the painted cases (common issue with the Savage if you fill the tank really full), the fuel will ruin the surface of the paint. Way back in 1974 I painted the engine cases on my Kawasaki 125 Enduro with a common spray paint and had this exact problem.

You won't need to use the high temperature paint for exhaust - but I would use a paint made for engine blocks as they are resistant to heat and fuel. Old technology is engine enamel - more modern paints are labeled as containing ceramic.

https://motormanner.com/best-engine-paint/

If you really want to do this well, the 2K paints use an activator to harden the paint, and the finish is far more durable than single component paint - unfortunately they cost more and once you activate the paint it has to be used in a very short amount of time.....you likely won't be able to do any "re-do" with the activated can.
https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-high-temp-ceramic-engine-paint.html

The original finish had a clear coating, and it gets ugly when water gets under scratches and begins to corrode the aluminum. Verslagen suggested using stripper as it will remove the clear coat and allow you to paint the aluminum.....and not put the new paint on the compromised factory clear coat.

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« Last Edit: 04/16/20 at 04:44:14 by Dave »

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justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers Reply #9 - 04/16/20 at 05:00:38 If you go with a paint that has a hardener you will need a respirator mask that uses carbon filters. Nothing less will do.
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RedBronco

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Re: Painting the Clutch and starter drive covers
Reply #10 - 04/16/20 at 10:52:02

Dave wrote on 04/16/20 at 03:33:01:

A big problem with using most generic spray paint, is they are not resistant to fuel. If you spill fuel on them, or your fuel cap leaks fuel after a fill up and it drips on the painted cases (common issue with the Savage if you fill the tank really full), the fuel will ruin the surface of the paint. Way back in 1974 I painted the engine cases on my Kawasaki 125 Enduro with a common spray paint and had this exact problem.

You won't need to use the high temperature paint for exhaust - but I would use a paint made for engine blocks as they are resistant to heat and fuel. Old technology is engine enamel - more modern paints are labeled as containing ceramic.

https://motormanner.com/best-engine-paint/

If you really want to do this well, the 2K paints use an activator to harden the paint, and the finish is far more durable than single component paint - unfortunately they cost more and once you activate the paint it has to be used in a very short amount of time.....you likely won't be able to do any "re-do" with the activated can.
https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-high-temp-ceramic-engine-paint.html

The original finish had a clear coating, and it gets ugly when water gets under scratches and begins to corrode the aluminum. Verslagen suggested using stripper as it will remove the clear coat and allow you to paint the aluminum.....and not put the new paint on the compromised factory clear coat.

thank you

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