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Soliciting Paid Assistance (Read 236 times)
Bokobob
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #15 - 04/04/20 at 15:39:46
 
IslandRoad wrote on 04/04/20 at 13:24:22:
Tis is the Yamaha part number for the petcock:

5LP-24500-01-00


I just ordered the Yamaha oem part 5LP-24500-01-00 from Ebay.  It was $32 plus a bit of shipping and tax...

I have not cleaned the carb...I am not handy enough to do that...I am elderly.  

Took 35 mile ride just now.
Seems to run a bit smoother when engine is warm and with choke pulled out slightly.  Maybe 3/8th of an inch out.  (Very little difference if any from no choke.  More or less a hunch.)
I tried it on prime setting on petcock...I could not tell if it was more or less smooth.  Thing is, with earplugs and helmet wind noise and riding on road not the smoothest, I could not tell...I'll do this tests again on a newly paved road soon.  
I will look into the "white" carburetor whatever...Don't know what it is.  
I use motorcycle specific oil.  Next change I'll try the Shell oil suggested.
Will change sparkplug after installing the Raptor petcock.
On my latest ride, I stopped after 20 miles and put the bike in neutral an revved engine to roughly 35% or so of throttle an did not notice any difference in the way the engine sounded (slight hesitation as said in opening post.)
Thank you all for your good suggestions... Smiley

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Bob
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srinath
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #16 - 04/04/20 at 16:37:38
 
No all those other carbs are all just going to make more work for you and not work as well as the stock.
BTW I am not too far - north side of Charlotte just off 485 and know my way round these bikes well with the 7th one as my sons bike that I did a carb clean on just 3 weeks ago. But quarantine and working at home makes me reluctant to venture the 100+ miles to fix it in 10 mins. Its pretty easy to slightly harder to fix this. You can fix this sight unseen. You likely have a dirty pilot jet, its all that clogs, its the smallest in the lot and it is the one that's active a lot. And idle and low throttle use only pilot. Its partially clogged, like it was in my son's bike. It wont take throttle and cold starting was a pain, but it would idle forever. However if you managed to get it upper throttle it would run decently. Cos its running off the mains. The only part I cleaned was the pilot jet, without even a real cleaning tool, and it worked like a charm.

The sequence is this.
Take out phillips head screws holding the bowl in, and have allen head bolts to replace them. Find pilot jet, take a wire tie that has vinyl on it, and pull the vinyl off with your finger nail. Shove it in the pilot jet holes a few times to get it all the way clean. Re fit the float bowl with allen bolts. Start the bike. Your problems will have disappeared by now. Conversely - you can ride it few hours and may disappear.

Cool.
Srinath.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #17 - 04/04/20 at 18:17:38
 
Take out phillips head screws holding the bowl in.

Not to be a pedantic jerk, but those are JIS screws, not phillips. Phillips tips will strip them. Or, you can grind the tip a bit flat until it fits into the X completely.
Ditch the petcock
If your oil looks like its growing, change it..
Heck,, Oil is cheap enough.. If I condemned the petcock, Id just dump the oil,, and start over. Rotella isnt that expensive,
Aslong as the exhaust is stock.
Im paying attention to your age and physical abilities and doing my best to ADVISE YOU, KEEPING THAT IN MIND. Sorry,, hit the blasted caplock button,,
I say, lets be patient, go slow and do the least physically challenging things first.
Check the oil.

If you think it the least bit higher than it hshould be
Park it until the petcock is replaced
Then change the oil.
Then see how it runs.
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IslandRoad
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #18 - 04/05/20 at 02:07:42
 
The symptoms sound like the classic 'lean surge' that the Savage is known for. I think Bokobob's original intuition was correct. The solution is to solicit some help to adjust the carb.

But ... swap the Petcock first.
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Gary_in_NJ
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #19 - 04/05/20 at 04:41:19
 
Bokobob

If you are able to remove and reinstall the carb, you can send it to me to be cleaned and evaluated. I refuse to take any money for doing this. I can adjust the needle with the washer mod as all LS650’s benefit from this mod.
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srinath
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #20 - 04/05/20 at 07:05:14
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 04/04/20 at 18:17:38:
Take out phillips head screws holding the bowl in.

Not to be a pedantic jerk, but those are JIS screws, not phillips. Phillips tips will strip them. Or, you can grind the tip a bit flat until it fits into the X completely.



Oh not being pedantic or jerk - but yes they are JIS.
Cool.
Srinath.
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Bokobob
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #21 - 04/07/20 at 05:14:33
 
Thank you for the additional replies..You guys know your stuff....I am daunted at removing the carb to send it off for repair.  However, I will check out video tutorials and make notes of key steps and remove the carb.

The bike is now starting right up with choke pulled all the way out and throttle not open..It only will run for a few seconds that way and then I push the choke half way in and leave it there for maybe the first two miles of riding.  Also, I crack the throttle by intuition to help keep it running...I also have now changed to Shell T4 oil.  

Please note that I have two thumpers.  The one I am wanting to fix is a 2009...the other one is a 1996 Savage 650.  Today I am gonna take the old one for a spin and see if I detect the same or similar "hesitation" as described in the leadoff post to this thread.  So far, my recollection is that the old one runs more smoothly and certainly starts easier than the newer one.  (Riding the old one is just for my curiosity.)

As always, I really appreciate all the input and suggestions..You guys are great... Smiley

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Bob
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srinath
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #22 - 04/07/20 at 05:25:24
 
Take out the battery and battery box. Then the air box side rubber boot come out and the carbs come out with the cable still attached. You can actually put a little cardboard box on top of the motor, rest the carb on that and pull the float off right there. Replace the bolts with allen heads so you can take off the float bowl without removing anything. You need to poke a wire through the pilot. Welding supply issue cleaner works, or I use those wire tie's that are essentially a bit of thin steel wire with a plastic coating. You scrape off that plastic coating and the wire will get in the jet. Of course you can also unhook the cable and hoses and get it onto a bench like a civilized person.
I have a video my son shot of us doing this. Let me see if we can find it and we can send it to you.
Cool.
Srinath.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #23 - 04/07/20 at 09:34:10
 
If you question the health of the petcock, use Prime, sometimes that makes it better.
If the gas is from last year, change it. Ive had this problem,,
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Bokobob
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #24 - 04/07/20 at 09:38:53
 
Srinath: will try to remove carb soon using your tips....

"Guy"  I Will use Prime when riding from now on.  I only use non-ethanol gas and have owned the bike for about 2 months now, maybe a bit longer.
thank you both.
Smiley

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Bob
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #25 - 04/07/20 at 10:13:34
 
non-ethanol gas

Well,, Thats a really good answer..
Check your oil, too. A split diaphragm often allows fuel into the carb, slowly flooding it, if the float valve is leaky, and down the throat and into an open intake,, and drips into oil..
It has been seen several times, and gas cut oil just can't be the best..
Glad you're being patient. takes a while to get through this kinda stuff via a forum. TONS of experience here and everyone wants you riding.
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srinath
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #26 - 04/07/20 at 10:42:09
 
To clean a carb - you really want ethanol. All those carb cleaners at their core are ethanol or other alcohol. Heet has methanol. Iso-heet has iso propyl alcohol. They clean better than most anything else on the planet. You would be better off running regular ethanol filled gas with extra alcohol in it.

What you can not do is to let it sit over winter with the alcohol rich gas. I'd ride it regularly ride long but run regular gas and extra alcohol in it.

Cool.
Srinath.
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #27 - 04/07/20 at 12:05:08
 
Just remember that it is not suggested that you use the spray carb cleaner and let it sit on plastic or rubber parts, just the metal. Some of these cleaners can be caustic and eat at plastics and rubber making it dry and brittle prematurely.

No biggie if you are squirting it in a hole and brushing it clean or such immediately, but don't just soak non-metal stuff in it. If you do get it on anything non-metal, you can douse it with a good helping of WD40 to wash away the cleaner.

However, you want to be careful not to soak the diaphragm slide or carb body in WD40 or cleaner and not clean it off with a lint free towel (requires that you remove the diaphragm). Oily substances left on the diaphragm slide or carb body will cause debris to stick here and cause a sticky diaphragm slide.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #28 - 04/07/20 at 15:50:08
 
Oily substances left on the diaphragm slide Up to and including something so common as fingerprints..
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Bokobob
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Re: Soliciting Paid Assistance
Reply #29 - 04/08/20 at 00:43:35
 
Many thanks for so much additional info.
Guys, I am out of my league and do not understand much of it...

I have another major  :'(  sudden bike problem and will not post on this thread until later on.

I will start another thread on a separate problem..

Thank you,
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« Last Edit: 04/08/20 at 04:06:31 by Bokobob »  

Bob
84 and still riding
2009 S40 650, and Rebel 250
Gastonia, NC
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