The engine has a carb.....not fuel injection.  The carb has no ability to adjust for cold weather......the fuel enrichment knob is your friend.

Start the bike with the knob pulled out if needed, then after a 30 second to 1 minute warmup - ride off slowly and let the bike warm up gently.  Push the choke in when you can - but leave it out a notch or two if that is what is required for the bike to run well.   Push it in when you can.

irritatedmongo wrote on 10/30/19 at 01:01:14:
--------------------------

Which is why you don't listen to batman in this case.  You should only change jetting for performance reasons.  Not because your bike doesn't run well before it reaches full operating temperature.   If it's underperforming after it's fully warmed up and you always ride in cold weather, then it's worth considering, but you said it runs like a top once you get home.

What dave said is correct.  Proper use of the enrichment knob, aka "choke" is all that is needed.   Full choke to get it started. Let it run for a few seconds, push the choke in halfway, pop it in gear and go.  No reason to let it sit there for minutes.  It's not going to warm up as fast as if you ride it and you could potentially do more harm than good if you leave it idling on the kickstand.  

I use my bike for commuting and often ride in similar temps as you. My bike takes a few miles to warm up enough to push the choke in completely when it's below 40 degrees.

 I fire mine up in cold weather all winter in CO.  

 Use the choke and let the fuel mixture do it's thing, idling 2 minutes or 10 minutes don't make much of a difference for my bikes.

 Riding is the most efficient way to warm it up, idling for two minutes isn't anywhere near as efficient and is not recommended for our bikes anyway as it can do damage.

It's been my understanding that multigrade oils flow at low temperatures easier than once they are warm.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 11/01/19 at 07:24:42:


That is not accurate.

All oils thicken when they are cold....and get thinner as they warm up.  No oil thickens as it gets warm (or hot).  A hot 30 oil will be thinner than a hot 40 weight oil......and a both will be thinner than a hot 50 weight oil.  The 20/30/40/50 viscosity number is measured at the boiling point of water (100 degrees centigrade or 0 celsius).  

The winter cold weather "W" rating of a multigrade oil is tested at 0 degrees centigrade (-17.8 degrees celsisus).  An oil that has a 5W rating will flow easier cold than one that is rated 10W.....and 15W and 20W are a bit thicker yet and a bit harder to flow at cold temperatures.  

The additives in a multi-grade oil can do one or both of the following:
1)  For cold weather - the additives can help to prevent an oil from thickening excessively when they are cold.  

2) For hot weather - the additives can help prevent the oil from thinning.  (The additives do not make the oil thicker).

To make this even more confusing - the winter "W" rating is also not a pure viscosity measurement, and it also includes a test to see how much resistance the oil provides when a shaft is turned and the the force measured......some additives reduce the turning force required in cold weather.  (The W rating not only has parameters for flow - but also for resistance to turning in a plain bearing).

The bottom line is that cold oil resists flow more than warm or hot oil does, and you should use an oil with a 'W" rating that is appropriate for the weather you ride in .......as well as the warm temperatures.  This time of year our weather can be in the 20's in the morning when you go to work - and in the 70's when you come home.....this is the kind of environment that Multi-Grade oils were made for.

https://www.lubricants.total.com/consumers/maintenancetips/Oil-viscosity-and-...

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-...


In the following link you will see that the viscosity of all the listed oils thin as they warm up.

https://wiki.anton-paar.com/us-en/engine-oil/

Wow!  Thank you all for the informative replies!  Fiddling the choke a little more than I was before is doing the trick.  Right now it gets about 40ish at night around here so it's pretty mild.  But I've found the smooth spot now for the choke when I first run her when I'm leaving work.  A tad embarrassed as I'm also a flight instructor with experience adjusting the mixture control on carbureted airplane engines.    But this is my first bike.  Initial service coming up next week so I'll also inquire about the oil grade.  Not sure exactly what's in it now, I bought it new.  I'll avoid "overwarming" her though.  Thanks for the great info!  Love this bike, just right for my current needs.

5w30 vs 10w30 - Differences in Engine Oil Viscosity - Axle ...
https://axleadvisor.com/5w30-vs-10w30
That means a 10w30 oil takes 10 seconds to flow through the tube when cold, and 30 seconds when hot. Normally, fluids thin as they warm up and thicken as they cool, but these oils have additives that cause the opposite to happen.

Personally, I'm not concerned. I'm a Texan. I'm not riding in cold enough temperatures to keep my 15/40 from doing what I need.