1. The service manual is kind of vague with setting the float high, any links / post that cover this?

2. I'm stuck with a severe bogging and carb backfiring issue at any acceleration, or holding speed over 40 mph. I have cleaned the carb, tried almost every poss combination of jet changes, including setting to stock. Have run the bike with and without the air box cover, and have placed in a clean filter. Nothing has helped. The tank is clean and fuel is flowing strongly out of the gravity feed petcock.

At the moment the only thing not stock on the bike is a dyna muffler, yet it stated bogging with the original muffler that came with the bike.

Could the float being out cause this? Is is happening because i'm starving for fuel?

Junker wrote on 10/10/19 at 16:10:12:

why sure there is...
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1367212825

can be found in the index (link below)

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yup... probably.

It it a genuine Yamaha part?

If it's not the petcock it's the sticky slide that batman mentioned.  I had enough problems with mine that I ponied up the $120+ for a new one and it was money well spent.

I followed that link that Verslagen posted that provides the float height of 1.06" to 1.114". While the range is correct, please note that the photo in that thread is a perfect example of how NOT to check the float height.

On the needle valve you will see that micro spring loaded pin that makes contact with the float tang. It is important that the pin not be compressed while taking the measurement. Therefore, the height must be checked when the carb is on its side, and rotated just enough where the tang makes contact with, but doesn't compress, the spring.

I'm going to add this info to that thread as well.

If the problem you are having arose prior to you taking apart the carb, it's more than likely not the float height. The only way the float height will change is if the tang is adjusted (intended or unintended). They really don't change from normal use. However, during carb maintenance it makes complete sense to check float height because you may have accidentally moved the set height.

The marks in the slide aren't necessarily bad. Several I have seen will have parts where the black color seems to weak off slightly over time.  So long as you are confident it is clean, seated properly and pulling a vacuum you should be ok.

If you have the carb off the bike and have an air compressor handy, you can open the throttle valve and give a blast of air through the carb body (can't remember exactly where to point the air) and watch the vacuum pull the slide up. If you can get this "test" to work and you know the slide is moving freely up and down all of the way, you can eliminate that at least...

Its probably not, but hasnt everyone been waiting for a cam adjuster plunger incident.  Its traveled so far out that the loose chain has jumped a tooth.

Ive had that happen on other vehicles and acted that way, like severely bad timing, barely running up to speed and backfiring like crazy.

Fact that I dont think its happened to anyone yet is pretty good chance thats not the problem.  But maybe someday it might creep up. Or perhaps 1 tooth on a single cylinder bike like this is such a drastic changed it wouldnt even run.

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Isn't that black stuff the result from the carb back firing?

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Yes, with a new vacuum cap.

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When cold I can slowly climb her up to 50mph, with the bike bogging at the slightest twitch of the throttle. Once warm, I can't get any faster than 30mph.

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None that I can see. I have check everywhere.

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I have tried straight stock, a combination of the stock and Lancers rejet pack, etc. All to no prevail.

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I have the Versy mod so nothing there has fallen apart. Would wrong timing make the bike bog?