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Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off center? (Read 799 times)
DragBikeMike
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #60 - 01/23/20 at 14:05:31
 
The long straight edge will most certainly be parallel to the rear pulley because it is clamped directly to the rear pulley.  It should be in intimate contact with the rim of the pulley, all the way across as shown here.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #61 - 01/23/20 at 14:14:02
 
In an ideal world, the straight edge will also be in intimate contact with the rim of the front pulley, all the way across, front to back.  But alas, some things really aren't worth struggling with.  As long as the straight edge is parallel to the front pulley, and it is within about 1/16" of the front pulley, things should be fine.  If the straight edge hits the front pulley and won't allow proper parallel alignment, or if it is parallel but the gap is greater than 1/16" or so, then you have to shift the rear wheel right or left by adjusting the spacer thicknesses.  You should confine that to spacers 18 & 19.

You can see from this photo that mine is parallel but has a small gap of about 1/16".  I could probably close the gap down by making spacer 19 a little longer, and spacer 18 a little shorter.  To me, it's not worth messing with.  It works perfect as-is.

Good luck with the repair and alignment.
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RocketScienceSmurf
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #62 - 01/23/20 at 23:52:31
 
Thank you all very much! I am amazed of the time and effort you all put in to help others. I hope I will eventually get my bike back together.

I have ordered tools to pull out whats left of the bearings. Hopefully the frame is in good enough condition to accept some new bearings and after that I will continue to mount and align the rear tire. I found another thread suggesting drilling and tapping a hole to install a grease fitting which sounds like an excellent idea but I think I need to remove the rust first.

@DragBikeMike: You asked about the miles on this bike. The odometer says 32000km (~20.000 miles) but I'm not sure that's correct.
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« Last Edit: 01/24/20 at 02:49:06 by RocketScienceSmurf »  
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #63 - 01/24/20 at 16:41:23
 
A grease fitting would be overkill in my opinion.  The is so little motion on that joint at the crappy factory grease last plenty long enough for the average rider.  

Unfortunately, your bike looks like it was ridden under extreme conditions. Like a lifetime of saltwater and sand.  You paying the price for that now, but you are learning a lifetime worth of maintenance lessons and you'll know what to look for if you decided to buy another used bike down the road.  Smiley
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #64 - 01/24/20 at 17:31:08
 
I think that needle bearing is a captive bearing anyways, I dont think the grease would reach the inside.

A lot of other bikes, especially dirt bikes have that feature.  But its often aimed at lubing the mid part usually, where its sometimes just bushings and and a shaft.  A zerk fitting there might be a nice feature. I guess on this bike it would actually a part of the frame, not the swingarm.
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RocketScienceSmurf
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #65 - 02/01/20 at 07:44:15
 
An update. I received the bearing puller this week and tried to remove the part of the bearing that was still stuck inside the frame. It didn't work and the tool broke. The bearing "housing" is really stuck inside the frame tubing. The next thing I will try is to use saw and try to cut the bearing housings in half and see if I can pull the pieces out.
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badwolf
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #66 - 02/01/20 at 08:04:32
 
Good luck trying to saw a bearing race, that steel is harder than a blade! Carbide or diamond ''might'' work. I would get out my Dremel tool and carefully grind a slot thru it, then punch it out.
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #67 - 02/01/20 at 08:29:01
 
You could find a shop to turn a rod down to the ID size of the swingarm and use a hydraulic press to push the bearing out. Rust is no match for 10-20 tons of pressure .
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #68 - 02/01/20 at 09:28:03
 
Penetrating oil, not wd40, but something like
Kroil, or mix acetone and dexron automatic transmission fluid 50/50,
Wet it good, and wet it again and again,give it some time, days, and bang on it, shake it up, soak it more,, not everything works in a minute, or even an hour,
If you have a good compressor, a panel cutter fitted with a punch will get more done in three seconds than a four pound hammer and a punch in several hours.
A bearing puller might work, BUT,,
It's been allowed to rust up..
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #69 - 02/01/20 at 17:46:59
 
+1 on the penetrating oil.  

If that doesnt work, what I do when a bearing just wont come out, is cut through the race or whats left of the bearing with a dremel and little fiber cutting wheel.

Dont cut all the way through, just enough to weaken the wall of the bearing so that you can work it loose with a screwdriver and pop out the remaining pieces.  You may have to make several cuts to make the bearing wall or race weak enough.
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RocketScienceSmurf
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #70 - 02/08/20 at 22:04:36
 
I finally managed to get the bearings out. It took a bit of work with the Dremel and then I could drive them out with a special, home fabricated, tool
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #71 - 02/09/20 at 14:52:57
 
That's great.  Good job.

Can you take some more pictures of the tooling you fabricated and some closeups of the bearing races?  Would be nice to have the specifics.

Also, do you have a link for that bearing puller set?
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RocketScienceSmurf
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #72 - 02/09/20 at 23:06:45
 
Of course. I will add some more closeups when I get a chance to take new pictures of it, but the puller set is this one from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264034512416 It is from a UK seller but was actually shipped from Germany which was a good thing for me since it arrived in just a few days.

All the big pullers in the set us a regular metric M10 thread so the tool fabricated mostly by a friend of mine was an adapter so that I could use the hammer drill. My hammer drill was supplied with a threaded adapter that had a 1/2" UNF thread with 20 TPI on one side and a SDS plus mount on the opposite side so the only thing needed was a threaded cylinder with a female M10 thread in one end and a 1/2" UNF thread in the other. Mine was a bit short since I measured completely wrong so I had the use an extension. This piece should be easy to make for anyone that has access to a lathe.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #73 - 02/10/20 at 11:25:09
 
Thanks for the link.  I wasn't able to pick up the exact one you purchased, but there were others shown with more favorable shipping to Hawaii, so I ordered one.  I've been wanting a puller like this for a long time.  I'm totally stoked.

So you used a hammer drill.  Do you think you could have got the old bearings out by simply using the slide hammer that comes with the kit?

I'm anxious to see your pictures.  Very curious about your cuts through the bearing races.

Thanks again.  Cool
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RocketScienceSmurf
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Re: Is it normal for the rear wheel to be off cent
Reply #74 - 02/10/20 at 23:29:08
 
Once I cut them with the Dremel I probably could have driven them out with the slide hammer but without the cut they wouldn't budge. There was absolutely no movement at all. The washers I used as spacers made it impossible to use the hammer drill to drive them all the way out so once I got them loose I used the long threaded part in the kit and just tapped them out with a few mild taps with a regular hammer. I will try and provide more pictures that can hopefully help others.

I first tried to pull the bearing out but the construction of the tools makes them probably more suited for driving/pushing stuck bearings out. The contact surface is not really flat (I will try and take a close up picture to explain what I mean) and they are not very hard so I actually deformed the edges a little when I first used it to pull instead of push.
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