Hey guys, finally got into the carb on my Ryca build. For those who didn;t read my first thread I am the second owner and I got what I think is a good deal on the bike because it wasn't running 100%. It has good compression so now I'm into the carb and having the tank lined to do away with the rust.

I pulled and dissembled the carb last night. I've rebuilt a bunch of carbs before but this one has some quirks I'm not familiar with and couldn't find in the search.

1. The ethanol shalacked everything pretty good. I'll clean it all up but the float appears to be very tarnished. All of the other bikes I've had, had a plastic float. This one is bras. It's only $20 for a new one but I am wondering should I clean it up and run it or buy a new one? See pic below.



2. What are these two jets in the top of the carb? I've only worked on slide carbs before. Do these ever have to be changed out if the bike jetting changes. I'm guessing not. They look like they just transfer air to the diaphragm to raise and lower the needle.



3. The bike had a 145 main and a 52.5 pilot. I'm guessing that's way too lean for a Ryca pod filter and Ryca exhaust. I read either a 155 main and a 55 pilot or a 152.2 main and 52.5 pilot elsewhere and 2 washers on the white spacer mod. I was surprisingly able to remove the needle pretty easily. I was initially afraid because of all the trouble I heard.

4. I read a lot that a Uni Filter is much better than the Ryca pod. Does anyone know which one works? How much does this change the jetting?

5. I see a replacement diaphragm is $100. This doesn't seem like it lasts forever. Does anyone know if a replacement can be sourced for less than $100?

6. Does anyone know what the best carb rebuild kit is? I see a bunch on Amazon including some off brand ones. I want to replace the fuel valve and seat for sure.

Thanks guys!!!

I put crusty brass floats in Phosporic Acid to clean them up.  Some toilet bowl cleaners do a good job on cleaning up brass.

The filter RYCA uses has a very small amount of filter area, and it is also shaped in a way that makes the airflow make a 90 degree turn to enter the carb throat......I just can't believe it is helping to improve the performance.  Getting a filter with more area and a better flow path would sure seem to be desirable.  If you have room for a bigger filter - use as large of one as you can fit that doesn't look too industrial.

The elevation around here is 500-800 msl.....and I have never jetted a bike that needed a main jet larger than #150 with the stock air filter setup.  The pilot jet in this area can be either a #50 or #52.5.....we must be at an elevation that is right between those two sizes as either one works fine.  I don't believe the pilot is very sensitive to air filter or exhaust changes, as it only functions at very low throttle opening and intake/exhaust changes really don't make much difference at low rpm.

Those jets at the top are air jets.....they control the air that mixes with the fuel inside the carb passages.  Jetting changes generally don't require fooling with the air jets.

If you want a more 'natural' rust remover you can get some Krud Kutter from the hardware store. Organic water based stuff and really good on rust removal without being too caustic as some acids are.  Maybe put a little in a dish and get an old toothbrush and gently scrub the solution around over the surface rotating it around occasionally.

Thanks, I'm going to try the vinegar. I know it works great on copper.

Also, what replacement screws are you using for the white spacer mod? Mine came out but are rounded. I've been reading that the stockers are too soft so I didn't just want to order 2 more from Suzuki.

The problem you have with the carb screws rounding off has to do with the fact that their JIS  -Japanese industrial standard  ,Phillip head screw drivers tips are to pointed and don't allow the 4 blades to fit completely down into the slots , they can be used if ground to a lesser angle and the points reduced.

The bolts for the needle/white spacer are M3 x 0.5 x 5mm and the bolts for the throttle plate are M5 x 0.3 x 10mm for those wondering. This along with the Lancer kit does away with almost all of the soft Phillips head bolts that strip easy. I got them from BoltDepot.com because I order form there from work but a better hardware store or Fastenal probably has them like was previously mentioned.

I'm hoping to have this carb rebuilt and jetted by the end of the week.

The bike had a terrible bog which other posters said is due to a lean condition. I agree after finding a 147 main.

I'm going to try a 152.5 main, a 52.5 pilot, and 2 washer in for the white spacer. I'm running a Ryca setup and it seems like that's what others have posted. Should be a good starting point at least.