springman wrote on 03/18/19 at 09:39:23:

I wouldn't use brake cleaner except for the most stubborn areas, such as the area next to the spark plug that can bake on grease.  Otherwise the cheapo degreaser from wally world works fine.

Springman:

Just think of the possibilities!

If you need a new cam chain and guides...might was well install a performance cam!

Looks like I am not through ordering parts. I am getting a bit of clutch slip under hard acceleration. I always run Rotella so I suspect I need the clutch push rod.

The other item is that my rear brake is squealing. Is it possible I have worn out the rear pads? Not really looking forward to checking that as no matter how careful I am, properly aligning the rear wheel to the belt is always a multi attempt pain in the rear.

Your squeally rear brake is most likely just rust and dirt.

Take it apart and clean out all the crap, light scuff the pads until the shine is gone, lightly scuff the steel drum until the rust is gone.   Clean everything with brake cleaner.  While it is apart make sure the lever moves freely....lube the pivot.

Thanks I appreciate all the input regarding the brakes, but I think it is fixed cause I did no hear them squeal one bit this morning. Those ear plugs are great! OK, next tire change clean it all out with break cleaner. Thanks.

JOG, thanks for the suggestion on the clutch adjustment. Versy knows I am not very good at adjusting the clutch as he adjusted it for me once. I will look at it in the morning and try what you suggested.

That is really interesting MM. I am waiting on a few parts to arrive and have forgotten to order the push rods. I actually installed new clutch fiber plates and new springs about 15K miles ago because the clutch was slipping badly (probably from incorrect oil). I have played with the adjustment a bit over the last few days but I am not sure I have it right yet. I'll continue to play with it and see if I can get it right. If I can't I may need to look for a steel clutch plate and try you fix.

Springman,

The push rod has to be VERY TOUGH and VERY HARD.  Drill rod isn't going to last but a month or so before it is worn away and gone.  Dowel pin steel isn't good enough to last but like a half a year.

I use M2 tool steel (round lathe bits) for my push rods, which does last for years and years.   The wear is all transferred to the sintered powder metal parts that the pushrod actuates against.  This lesser wear still happens though, changing the engagement point accordingly.

As MM mentions, your aluminum plate and your pushrods are the major wear points that cause your clutch pack to get whacky.  Plate wear is actually a minor wear amount in the total stack of the clutch system.

It is NOT generally plate wear that causes clutch packs to get replaced -- contamination with friction modifiers is the main cause of clutch failures to my experience.   Rotella T synthetic has moly oil in it now, so far Dino Rotella does not have any moly oil in it.
(I need to go look again as this stuff likes to change while you are not watching).
NOTE INSERTED BY DAVE: The new T6 in the blue bottle is fine....don't use the old T6 in the white bottle.

I collect worn clutches (steels and friction plates) from folks that consider them totally shot ......   However, while recognizing that Clymers lists the plate thicknesses ass-backwards in the book, NONE of the plates I have measured has yet ever been worn out of spec.

I await enough wear in my original pack to put in an extra steel and an extra friction plate into a "very well worn" clutch pack, but suspect I will not live long enough to see that happen.