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Air Filter Flow Test (Read 489 times)
DragBikeMike
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #15 - 11/30/18 at 10:19:17
 
Don’t let the percentage value confuse things.  That value represents the percentage of rated flow for a particular orifice @ 15” H2O.  I couldn’t achieve anywhere near 15” H2O because these elements don’t offer enough restriction to start pulling higher vacuums with this small vacuum source.  The shop vac just isn’t big enough to torture these filters.  But at the test pressures used, the percentages give us a very good picture of which elements perform better.  I think it’s safe to say that the K&N outperforms all other elements by a comfortable margin.  It also looks like the K&N filter oil performs a little better than canola.

It’s hard to say whether the other filter elements would come closer to the K&N as the flow went up.  The data seems to trend in that direction.  The spread is smaller @ 1” H2O than it is @ ¾”, but I’m almost certain the two curves will never cross.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #16 - 11/30/18 at 10:26:05
 
Now we have some hard data to help choose the best filter element for the intended application.
 
If you are looking for a no hassle replacement that you know will fit and work as intended, the OEM filter is probably a good bet.  It costs $30 and you only have to replace it every 7500 miles.  It flows as intended, and you can rest comfortably knowing your engine’s health is in good hands.

The poly-fil takes some effort, but its bargain basement price makes it the economy king.  With 512 square inches of material for $20, and an additional $3 for canola oil, you can fabricate at least 18 elements.  That works out to about $1.25 a copy.  Others have tested its effectiveness at keeping dirt out of your engine, and it appears to do that just fine.  I was expecting it to flow better than the stock filter since some have reported improved performance with this material.  I did my level best to procure the exact material previously posted.  It may be that Fairfield has changed the composition of the poly-fil nu-foam, possibly some improvement geared toward its intended use (furniture cushions).  It also might be that I didn’t get the right stuff.  If any of you can confirm if the stuff I tested is right or wrong it would be most helpful.

The K&N is the Cadillac of filtration devices, and its entry price of $54 justifies the Cadillac moniker.  It costs a fortune, but it’s the airflow champ.  It fits correctly and has a good reputation for keeping the dirt out.  It also lasts the life of the motorcycle, so it’s a one-time investment.

Here is a picture of the poly-fil package.  As I mentioned, its possible that I may have procured the wrong product.  If any of you can confirm whether or not its the correct stuff, please let us all know.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #17 - 11/30/18 at 10:28:30
 
While researching filter prices, I stumbled across another choice, the HiFlo Filtro.  It retails for $15, looks like a standard paper element, and seems to have some good reviews.  If I can get my hands on one, I will test it and post the results.
 
On 04/09/18 I posted some test results on various modifications to the airbox (see “Air Box Performance Tests”).  Those tests were performed with a simple u-tube manometer.  I intend to retest the airbox mods using the flow bench.   That way, we might be able to get some data that reflects actual flow, rather than simply a change in flow.

Hope this information is useful to you all.  Knowledge is power.

Best regards, Mike                  
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #18 - 11/30/18 at 11:21:05
 
I could have sent you an airbox for this test.   Smiley
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #19 - 11/30/18 at 22:56:16
 
Thanks Ohiomoto, but the airbox has to stay in the bike for the tests.  The seat actually forms part of the flow path into the snorkel.  I'm also finding that the decorative covers that hide the airbox make a significant difference.  More to come.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #20 - 12/01/18 at 09:17:46
 
I 'm more concerned with the primary purpose of an air filter ,that is to say filtering out the crud and prolonging the life of my motor, than I am how a filter might add to the motor's performance.
  The stock air filter does a very good job of filtering , but the paper being pleated (the bends being compressed) does restrict flow.
  The K&N filter has  higher flow when compared to  polyester ,  but this may be due to thickness of the material .
   The real difference is the filter material  ,  K&N uses cotton ,which in my mind comes up a bit short on performance. Cotton being a textile fabric is hydroscopic ,that is it absorbs moisture quickly, and dries rather slowly. It has a normal moisture content  of 8% right out of the box. When exposed to moisture for prolonged periods ( your riding season/changes in relative humidity) it may cause dimensional changes in texture and shape, and this is not fully reversible .( the moisture level does not return to 8% but is somewhat higher afterward ). This may be a factor in DBM's testing where the results were unrepeatable. Moisture contained in the cotton may have swelled the fibers restricting flow ,degrading performance of a K&N filter over time.
    Filters made of polyester fibers (0.4%  moisture ) are hydrophobic  , they absorb no water ,so are dimensionally stable. where it is true that the Oldfeller's  home cooked filter does not flow as well as the K&N , more importantly it's performance( filtering) remains consistent  over time. Simply washing the K&N "s cotton may degrade it's performance ,polyester could care less. I haven't heard how often the K&N has to be cleaned and reoiled(nor the cost of said oil?) ,but my Oldfeller's filters on my bike only need cleaning every other season (2 years-7,000 miles).
     If I was involved in a racing situation I might consider a K&N filter,with frequent changes,  but for piece of mind ,low cost ,low maintenance,I wont.  
     
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« Last Edit: 12/01/18 at 11:32:48 by batman »  

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #21 - 12/01/18 at 14:27:35
 
Regarding consistency of the data, I had problems with consistency because I was performing the tests using the floating pressure drop method (i.e. just closing all the bleeds and seeing which combination resulted in the lowest depression).  That method will tell you which combination offers the least resistance to flow, but the results are significantly affected by atmospheric conditions, and you can’t readily convert the results to a flow. You know its more or less, but you don’t know how much.  I’d go to recheck a combination and the result would be different.  So, as I said earlier in the post, I sat down and thought things out.  I changed my method to the standard pressure drop, where you do all the tests at a fixed pressure.  Once I started testing all combinations at the same pressure, the results were totally repeatable.  I could come back to the rig the next day under slightly different atmospheric conditions and get the same results.  My inconsistent data was the result of my method, not the filter absorbing water.  The inconsistencies were across the board, stock, poly-fil, K&N, I would get screwy data on all of the combos.

Regarding the pleats, those pleats expand the surface area of the filter media so that the area exposed to the flow of air is actually about 2-1/2 times greater than the filter frame.  So that would make the stock pleated filter about 2-1/2 times larger (in area exposed to flow) than the poly-fil inserted into the stock frame.  The opening in the frame is 4.75 x 4.31 for an area of 20.5 inches squared.  If you take the pleated media out of the frame and lay it out flat, it measures 4.75 x 17.25 for an area of 53.4 inches squared.
 
There are 14 pleats in the stock filter, and each pleat is 5/8” tall.  I used a long strip of paper 4.75” and folded it to form 14 pleats that were 5/8”.  I made sure it fit correctly in the test frame.  When stretched out and laid flat it measures 17-1/4”.  That works out to a lot more exposed surface.


Here is a shot of the paper mockup.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #22 - 12/01/18 at 14:28:34
 
Here's a shot of the paper mockup stretched out and laid flat.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #23 - 12/01/18 at 14:33:07
 
I’m not sure what affect humidity in the air has on the K&N.  I do know the poly-fil package talks to the fact that the polyester material doesn’t absorb water.  The K&N gauze filter is saturated with oil.  I don’t see there being a lot of room for moisture to get into the fabric with all that oil.  I do know that K&N has an excellent reputation, and until now, I’ve never heard any complaints about the hydroscopic properties of the filter media used in the K&N.

I'm looking for performance.  Some of you are looking for economy.  Some want simplicity and ease of maintenance.  This study should provide some good data to help you make an informed choice.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #24 - 12/01/18 at 17:11:28
 
Well Mike I suppose we could debate  things all day, but there is 27 bends in the paper stock filter and rather closely spaced  ,each bend doubling the thickness of the paper and the air has to change direction twice as it passes threw. So my question is how much effective surface area does the filter have ? It doesn't lie flat in the frame ,so measuring it in the open position doesn't impress me much.
  K&N claims the filter will last the life of the bike, my bike is 23 years old ,yet I own no 23 year old cotton T shirts that I've worn 6 months a year. Your testing K&N filter with 1200 miles , Check it again at 10,000 or 20,000 miles and if it's still in good shape I may but one. You would think that a filter that costs $50+ dollars might contain polyester filtering material rather than cheap cotton. Just my take.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #25 - 12/01/18 at 18:14:21
 
I bought a k & n and had to send it back because it does not fit. The top of the filter hits the backward sloping surface at the top of the airbox which pushes the filter away from where it is meant to seal.

I had numerous emails with all different people at K & N where they kept asking for more information then not replying back. FFIW the entire company are a bunch of deceptive lying scumbags. I'll post some photos if you like.

I have also discovered upon checking my old OEM filter that the pleats have a lot of sand in them even though it's just used on the road. How that sand gets in there is hard to see seeing how the intake is so protected, but you wouldn't want any of that in your engine.

I bought some special foam and the correct oil but I've not yet worked out the best way to fit it into the old gutted filter.

edit: see for yourself...







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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #26 - 12/01/18 at 21:10:09
 
Eau de Sauvage, I appreciate you sharing those photos and your experience with the K&N product.  All I can say is my K&N fits perfectly, and the swipes I took indicate that zero dirt is getting past that filter.  I've been using K&N products for many years and have never had the need to request assistance from the manufacturer.  They've always fit perfectly and performed as advertised.  But I have to admit, if you get a turkey, you want the manufacturer to stand behind their product and make good on it.

This post isn't an advertisement for K&N.  I'm just trying to gather data on what's available and share with everyone else.  So far, using methods that I think are unbiased and technically sound, my data shows the K&N flows best.  Pleats or not, you can't argue with the data.  The K&N flows best.  I haven't come up with a way to test the filtering properties of the media.  Old Fellers swipe method seemed reasonable to me.  The maintenance issues are sort of a personal preference.  Some folks might find messing around washing and re-oiling filters humbug.  I personally enjoy stuff like that, and I imagine Batman enjoys it too.  The stocker is the maintenance king, take out the old one, shove in a new one.  Cost is certainly a concern and the K&N loses that contest hands down.

The data obtained for this filter test correlates nicely with the airbox tests that I am currently doing.  So, in a few days, I will be finished with the airbox and post that information.  As it turns out, with the right mods, you can get the stock element to flow  fairly well, you just have to be willing to accept a lot of intake noise.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #27 - 12/01/18 at 21:20:47
 
BTW, Batz, I ran a K&N in my old Harley.  I bought the bike new in 1990 and almost immediately installed an S&S Super E carb.  That carburetor kit came with a foam filter element that was pretty sketchy so again, almost immediately, I changed out that element with a K&N.  I rode that bike for 16 years, then I hung it up.  Sold it in 2015.  Still had the same K&N element.  The guy that bought it from me had me do some work on it about six months ago.  It still has the same K&N element, and it looks just fine, and there isn't a pile of dirt clinging to the mouth of the carburetor so I assume its still trapping the crud.  What can I say, that cheap cotton, you know it only lasts about 28 years.  I might also add, that in the 25 years I owned it, I don't remember ever even washing and reoiling it.  But I'm really old and tend to forget stuff like that.  Heck, I must have serviced it at least once or twice in 25 years.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #28 - 12/01/18 at 22:01:47
 
Well I have friends with Harleys and I am familiar with the filter that comes with those S&S carbs, and you can hardly do worse, that very thin open foam is completely worthless, but if you didn't oil the K&N,  I can't believe it didn't pass a lot of fine particles into the motor, perhaps your lucky.
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Re: Air Filter Flow Test
Reply #29 - 12/01/18 at 23:05:47
 
Of all the money I spent on mine, I only regretted the K&N air filter.I wouldn't do that again.
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