IF YOUR SPENDING THAT KIND  OF MONEY THEN WHY NOT UP GRADE TO A BETTER CARB. STYLE ?    CHECK THE MARKET PLACE OR EBAY.

I suppose it is possible to buy a used slide - if someone has a carb that has a stuck idle fuel screw......or a float bowl that is just too gummy to clean.  But I bet there aren't too many used slides/diaphragms for sale without a carb.

If this is your "first" time doing any carb work or jetting....I am not sure I would embark on installing an alternate carb, as the stock one works well and we know what jetting works in it.

Thanks for the replies.
Batman, I think you referring to the White space I read about here. I will be experimenting with that as well. But I'm talking about the big plastic washer thing that holds the diaphragm against the slide. Upon removal I noticed it was slightly cracked, figure it should be replaced.
Dave, yes this is my first time rebuilding a carburetor, and I agree with not embarking on an alternate carb since I don't have a clue, ha ha. I have an aftermarket exhaust and will be getting a pod filter. I have the Ryca jet kit in at 55 pilot and 150 main. I'll see how that goes when I'm up and running.
Ohiomoto, good point, I'll go with new.

One more question, are the diaphragms/slides all the same? Are they dependent on the year? Mines a 1997.
Thanks again,
Lisa

What exhaust?
Before you
Go With
A pod filter
Get it running Right.

Part # 2 in the diagram.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1997/savage-ls650p/carbur...

You are going pretty rich with the jetting IMO.  Pretty much what the previous owner had mike bike at when I got it. Sounded cool, but ran like a turd. I found that my bike runs much better a little leaner and I get better mileage.  I'm running something like a 47.5 and a 147.5 or 150 with a touch of a white spacer mod for the mid-range.  Stock airbox and Dyna muffler.

JOG is right.  Get the jetting straight before you start changing parts.  Then make adjustments as you swap parts.

Also, there are some tests out there that have shown that many pod filters allow LESS air into the carb.  You might find that your bike actually needs leaner jetting with a pod filter than it needs with a stock airbox.  

Lastly, if you do go with the pod filter, you need to make sure you don't get one that blocks the air intake ports at the back of the carb.

Thanks again for all the replies.
My bike was passed down to me earlier this year, running very poorly. It was obnoxiously loud, cut off at high speed, stalled on acceleration etc, all around it didn't feel right.
Here's a pic of the exhaust the previous owner had on.
New raptor petcock has been installed, PO installed one too, but it was neglected, gunk, missing both filters, had traces of rust and varnish.
Next week I'll electrolysis rust remove my tank and por15 tank seal. In line fuel filter as well.
Back to my carb issue... When I disassembled it, rust and gunk mainly in the inlet filter and needle valve area, bad! The small spring thing that connects needle valve to float was OFF and just at the bottom of the bowl, diaphragm/slide ring cracked.  It had a main 145 and pilot 47.5.  I've taken care of everything, just waiting on my diaphragm assembly to come in (ordered last night).

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 11/01/18 at 17:20:17:


Would someone tell this guy that carburation is dependent on air flow?
If your exhaust is too free flowing, jetting gets really difficult.
So.
Again
What Exhaust do you have?