Dave wrote on 11/03/18 at 03:10:22:IslandRoad wrote on 11/02/18 at 16:13:58:Dave, do you remember which grade of grit you began the polishing with? I intend to polish mine as well, and was just recently wondering what grade grit to start with.
I had the cases off the bike, and it allowed me to first use Aircraft Stripper to remove the clear coat from the aluminum. I believe I started with #320 on any rough spots, then #400, then #600, then on to #1,000. I then used a buffing wheel.
If your bike sits outside or your ride in a lot of wet weather.....or even worse you ride in the winter when they put deicer on the road - you will need to clear coat the aluminum.
Thanks for the advice Dave. I intend to take the covers off to polish them, and I was thinking along the same lines - it's nice to have it confirmed.
I polished the forward control kit with a similar approach - up to 600 grit, and then used Autosol paste to buff them up. I was very happy with the results, and was very surprised with how well they held up without clear coat.
The main reason I want to do it is because the clear coat on all the existing parts is developing an ugly white 'crazy-vein' that's developing into a horrible white cloudy mess.
I intend to (over time) polish the crank-case covers, the fork clamps, and the top and bottom housings on the forks. I reckon I'll just leave them un-coated and accept they'll need a little maintenance now and then.
I recently dealt with some rust on the front wheel, with some 'Purple' metal polish. Crikey, what a difference. It does knock just a little off the finish but for all intents and purposes it's as good as new!