[quote author=062436360D2A302120450 link=1535467016/15#15 date=1535629396]batman wrote on 08/29/18 at 20:47:41:

It's worth noting that the throttle rises when the clutch is pulled in/when I go to downshift. It's almost as if it gets hung up in 3rd or 4th.

The carb knows nothing of gear selection. The only association between the two is the resulting throttle input. If the rpm is changing when the clutch is pulled, it suggests that there is problem with the clutch causing excessive drag on the drivetrain.

I wouldn't be concerned with the clutch and its effects on the idle unless it persists after the high idle is resolved.

I agree that air leaks are a possibility, but I it's more likely that is has something to do with the carb based on the information provided in the OP.

Also, what else was touched, mucked with or changed recently?  

1)  The valves were adjusted.  A overly tight valve lash is one of the worse things for a valve train and it only gets worse as an engine gets hot and the head expands.  I can cause a lack of power and a hanging idle.  It also makes an engine run very lean.

I'm not sure why a tight valve lash would run well for a few weeks before showing symptoms and your "tapping" of the carb would not affect valve lash.  Unless the drop in idle speed just coincidently coincided with the timing of the act.  Either way,  you want to be sure this isn't a problem.  You may want to have your mechanic make sure nothing bad is happening up there.

2)  You also change a needle and seat.  Did you use OEM or an aftermarket kit?  You think you smelled gas in your oil??  Maybe the float is set too high or the valve is not seating properly?  This would provide the engine with more fuel than it needs at idle.  Did tapping the carb seat the float needle???  If so maybe it's not the slide at all.

3) You suspected the slide was sticking and had that apart. Maybe it is, but why now all the sudden?

Stay focused on the recent and relevant events.

If there is any pitting on the slide, or in the carb body where the slide...er...slides, then those parts must be replaced. If you have a pair of calipers, then check the diameter of the new needle versus the old - or just check that the needle freely moves up and down in the needle valve without hanging up. BTW, a bent needle will cause all sorts of problems...so roll it on a flat surface to ensure it's not bent. While you're at it, check the condition of the needle valve seat, they do wear out. The float height is changed via force. Be careful when moving the carb around without the bowl attached, the float pin easily falls out and always rolls where you can't find it.

I did the spacer mod back in the spring, switched the white washer with 3 little metal washers that came with my jetset from the fellow on here!

My air/fuel mixture screw didnt work, as I mentioned a few times. I just replaced it this morning, along with a full carb clean & rebuild. Put in a 50 pilot and 150main. These are the jet sizes I had in when it was running well and I wasn't getting a carbon fouled plug. I went to higher jets because people kept telling me to do so. As a woman in the moto world,  im often told I'm wrong....so I try othersr advice and see how it goes.


I understand that black soot is a carbon fouled plug & running rich...I totally get that....my issue is figuring out how to STOP that.  The bike was running rich when I bought it, with stock jets. Once I did the Raptor PC & spacer mod & changed jet sizes, it was running well & I did a 2000+kms trip...then my bike died in an intersection & wouldn't start again.....got my valves done, rebuilt my carb & the float needle was really worn so I replaced that with a OEM needle+seat from the dealership. Now the only parts I haven't changed in my Carb is the slide w/diaphragm & the TEV diaphragm & my jet needle. I have a new jet needle on its way to me.

Put the bike together this morning, went for a test ride & it DOES run better but then started to get hung up & high idle again....right away I jumped off the back-literally LIGHTLY tapped the float bowl with the rubber end of a screw driver ...and the idle immediately went down. Didn't even have to tap it hard.

So something is getting hung up. My float needle is only 3 weeks old, seems to moves freely in the seat.....think it's half a shot putting the old float needle back in & see what happens cuz I didn't have a high idle hang prior to changing it.

Maybe a combo of testing the old seat + new needle and then old needle in new seat?

I would not interchange the float valve needle and seat, they come as a set. I'd stay with the new set . You may want to revisit setting the float valve height ( the height is the distance between the upper body and the lowest part of the float ,and yes it 's adjusted by bending the small tang on the float .BUT the measurement given does not include the thickness of bowl gasket ,if it stays in place in the carb body you'll need to slightly decrease the measurement.
     It would seem that the slide is still hanging up . when you reassemble ,you need to be sure ,that the side diaphragm tongue (lip) is in the recess,( the diaphragm only goes in one position)and that you push the outer built up edge into the groove all the way around the outside edge, and that the spring is centered in the top cap.
  when you have the carb reassembled ,but before mounting to the bike,you should be able to put your finger in the throat of the carb and push up slowly on the slide,feel if it hangs up and release it and it should drop smoothly. If it doesn't , you could remove the needle and repeat, this would at least tell you if the problem is the slide or a bent needle jet.

well if that's the case , your problem is the float ,not the slide. if tapping lightly on the carb drops the fast idle the float is hanging up for some reason

+1 for too large jets !  Try 52.5/150
ps: former Ottawan, a long time ago! Cheers!