I would dump the stock petcock, and go with the raptor one.

 Not sure if that is the solution but the stock petcock needs to go eventually.

How to test yer' pet...
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1251932429/1

Yeah watch the springs - once you get the cap apart, there isn't any retainer holding them in place, just the spring tension. I rebuilt mine (gas leaked when the tank was full) and as I was putting it back together SPROING and I was down a spring. Pretty easy to find a suitable spare but what was an easy 30 minute job turned into a trip to the hardware store.
-RH

Shipyard wrote on 07/24/18 at 10:58:04:


What Batman says......extended idle on an air cooled bike is a horrible way to treat your engine.  If the bike is not moving - there is little or no air flow through the cooling fins.....and there is very little oil pressure at idle.  Even worse may be that you are killing your exhaust cam lobe and rocker if the bike is leaned over on the sidestand.

In the 10,000 miles I have been riding my Savage - I don't believe it has idled in any one spot longer than a traffic light at a busy intersection.  I put on my riding gear, get on the bike, start it an hold the throttle open to a fast idle of around 2,000 rpm to get the oil flowing - then after 30 seconds I ride off gently and allow the bike to warm up while I am riding.  I never use full throttle until the bike is fully warmed up.

If your bike is dying when you roll off the throttle and pull in the clutch - then it is likely your idle speed is too low, or your idle fuel mixture is too lean, or both.  You may have a vacuum leak somewhere - the petcock could also be to blame.

Sounds suspiciously like the slide may be sticking. Did you make sure to clean the slide and not get goo or fingerprints on it?  If it is either sticking or ripped and can’t pull a vacuum, there is a potential problem.

when you twist the throttle open it moves only the throttle plate, the slide opens and closes due to pressure/vacuum working on the rubber diaphragm in the top of the carb ,and this is the area you need to check. Did you disassemble the brass plate and needle jet when cleaning the carb?( did you do the spacer mod?) Is the slide hanging up? did you by mistake swap the air and main jets ?

Assuming everything you have done and checked is correct, when you removed and disassembled the carb to clean it, did you pay attention to every tiny passageway in the carb body ?  They are often overlooked but the smallest piece of grit or sand or carbon can block them.  Most of them control the pilot fuel circuit in one fashion or another.  They need to be flushed with carb cleaner and blown out with compressed air.  When doing so protect your face and if you  question whether any of them did not pass the fuel cleaner and air correctly then do it again until it is.  If that does not work then you need tiny wire to clean them out.  There is a carb cleaning tool for doing this.  It is essentially the same as the gas welding tip cleaners.  
This can cause you lots of headaches.