the quick check is to put it in a tall gear and bump the bike forward until you can operate the decomp lever (top left side) by hand.  That indicates it's on the exhaust stroke.
now press the start button (don't stutter, hold it down) and if it starts, yes it's the decomp.
It's possible that it's adjusted way too tight.  the decomp needs some freeplay or it won't have enough gumption to pull the lever.
But it can be adjusted to loose too.
Start with too loose, the only time it won't start is when the engine stops on the compression stroke.
When it's too loose, it will start on the 1st rev otherwise.
Then tighten until it starts on the 2nd rev.

Also there are decomp adjustment instructions in the tech section.

Put your hand on the solenoid. It should click a second before it tries to crank.

had something like that. even installed a 20amp bypass switch across the solenoid for starting. then, when I had the leaky tank off, air blasted everything, wiggled all the connections just because, and noticed later the starter switch worked again??? fyi.  

Lets just look at the problem backwards -The starter isn't turning ! there is only three things to prevent that ,the starter solenoid ( which we can assume is good being new) ,the starter solenoid not getting power from the starter push button (contacts dirty?/ on it ,the clutch switch, sidestand switch -only if your not in neutral , and lastly the decomp controller - which is sealed and the least likely to fail. ) the battery weak/or the ground cable connection  weak ,where it's bolted to the motor not carrying enough amps to turn the starter. While it's nice to have the decomp work, most of the time it's not needed, nor would it stop the starter from turning unless the motor is on the compression stroke,( and if it did the cable at the starter would feel very warn) and you could roll the bike forward in gear and pop the clutch to bump it past TDC.

Yes JOG, that's what I read too ,But which two posts did he jump? (with one screwdriver?) That's why I mentioned power to the starter solenoid, and it's path through the starter button, sidestand switch and clutch switch.If the bike started that way the kill switch has to be working, the clutch and sidestand switches can be bypassed ,one at a time ,if the starter still didn't run that would point to the starter button being the problem (dirty contacts ?) The circuit also passes through the decomp but the odds are the decomp isn't the problem, but the starter button could also be checked with an ohm meter if all was good then the problem would have to be the decomp relay . but why buy one if it's just a simple switch problem. Did he test the old starter solenoid, or just buy a new one? I'd suspect the clutch switch, most people don't think about the wear it sees, opening and closing each time the clutch lever is moved . Mine failed and I bypassed it years ago.( bet it's made the stealerships a lot of money).

If you hear the click then the battery, starter button, all safety switches, decomp solenoid and Timer I portion of the decomp controller must be working. The click is the decomp opening the exhaust valve. Test the timer II portion of the decomp controller because that is what completes the circuit to the starter relay and then the starter turns.  I still think it is Timer II portion of the decomp controller.  But I have been wrong before.

Johnny57. both timers are ACTIVATED by the starter button, but POWERED straight from the battery . the decompression control module is always  powered , even when the bike is not running. the starter button just sends a signal to both timers (relays) that control the current  flow to the solenoids.