Alright, now we're having a conversation.

Let's use your 200a battery example. What if, with all of the electrical loads turned on, and maybe an accessory, that the charging system doesn't get the battery back to a full 200a charge. Everything is working as it should, but a few connectors and some thin wire prevent that available current from allowing the battery to reach its intended potential. Now that extra 0.5v that can be directly routed to the battery is the difference between a good start or a walk home. That's the threshold I'm talking about.

batman wrote on 01/24/18 at 17:10:45:

same as all mine.  due to the long line and the headlight taking juice off the same line (I think) the voltage will be less at the tap point.  add in the resistance of the wire back and several contact resistance and maybe a bad joint or 2 and you got less.  I know it pulses down to 10v or so and still starts, how much less can't tell you.  But less and it'll crank till your starter melts.

Vercy,The ignition is very sensitive to voltage only because it draws very little amperage .When the field collapses a higher voltage is induced in the secondary windings ,but may also be echoed back toward the TDI by the primary as at that time no voltage is applied. If we raise voltage ,we may raise  the echo an damage the TDI ,this is the reason use of a larger stronger race coil is not recommended .  Raising the voltage on our stock coil may do the same damage.(don't know)...just did some research, Volts to the module should never exceed 14 or damage will occur ,13 and change is OK.

You could always go to a 16v battery

batman wrote on 02/02/18 at 21:30:45:


I have ran 24v on my zx14 I would flip a switch and it would put 24 to the ignition system and the I would spray the crap out of it then turn it off and drive on 12v but I had to change the batteries when I got home I should have wired it to charge both lol

Gary, If the load ,with an accessory doesn't allow the battery to fully charge, then the accessory load is to large and the battery will over time discharge and you'll be walking home anyway. If this total load is just barely below total output then the battery will charge ,but take much longer to achieve full charge. There are only three ways to generate more power ,all have to do with your alternator, 1) as Dave said,  is to increase the wire size of the stator with the same number of turns. 2) Is to increase the magnetic lies of flux (Field strength ) which we can't do ,because we  have fixed magnets ,not electromagnets in the rotor.3) is to raise rpm ,this shifts the angle of the lines of flux making them longer so that they take more time to pass through the winding an create more power .( The reason you test alternator output at 5000 rpm, not at idle).

batman wrote on 02/02/18 at 22:16:56:



What diagram we ran two batteries and ran to a switch and the 12v through a switch  turn the one off turn the other one on you have 24 volts

You sure do a lot of technical talk and big words are you an engineer or electrical engineer or a machinist