We have about 100 watts of power we believe.  Some aftermarket stators claim to have more power - but there is no proof.  There also is no real data on what the regulator/rectifier can handle.

You may be able to reapportion the power - Changing the headlight from a 50/65 watt bulb to a 20 Watt LED helps, the running lights are 3 watts each (2 in front one tail light).

If you want extra power you may need tighter wine jeans.

It always helps to up the wire gauge of the wires involved in the charging system, including the leads to and from the battery. That, and making sure the grounds and other connections are clean and happy.
I've dealt with a lot of older Japanese bikes with anemic charging systems. Just bought a bunch of LED instrument bulbs. Not a big draw, but every watt counts on these gutless systems. Obviously, head and tail light are bigger users.

GT61 TURBO ZX14 wrote on 01/21/18 at 18:42:25:


Why would you want more voltage?.....it is amperage that we are lacking.

For more amperage.....you want the same number of windings with a larger wire diameter.

One of my other bikes is a Suzuki DRZ. That bike makes 70VAC on each leg (the LS is 100VAC) and has a total output in the range of 200 watts. A common mod to increase available power (known in the DRZ community as the "Free Power" mod) is to rewire the R/R output (charge wire) direct to the battery. This mod increases the voltage measured at the battery. The stator and R/R system are not producing any additional power, but the mod eliminates a common faulty OEM plug, and excess wiring length, part of the OEM system that through resistance lowers the amount of power getting to the battery.

With this mod you can get an additional 0.5VDC delivered to the battery - so in effect there is additional capacity. As mentioned above, going all LED will make more power available on the DC bus as well. Eliminating the decompression solenoid will also free up some DC Bus capacity, but if you're going to go with a high compression piston, you may need to retain that feature.

You have to read all of the words. The idea is to have the R/R go direct to the battery without going through connectors, switches or low gauge wires. You may be limited to 200 or so watts continuous, but the battery surly can handle small bursts of high current as long as it has adequate time to recover.

OMG,"Energy can neither be created or destroyed" there is no "Free Energy".! The alternator makes the same power and the bike uses the same amount as it always did.If you raise the voltage of the battery you may exceed the charging rate and shorten battery life, it may have more stored power but this is only good when hitting the starter button. You've only one path instead of two, that the power can take to feed both lighting and the ignition systems ,unless you have greatly increased it's wire size to carry the entire load , the greater amperage will drive up resistance , drive down voltage ,causing the wire to heat which will be dispelled.(causing a net loss in electrical energy). But even if you have gone to heavier wire you may be charging the battery at a higher rate, ( a 200 amp battery would only be charged to 207 amps at the higher voltage)but your also discharging the battery at a higher rate. you gain nothing. Shorting the path of flow does nothing, the speed of flow through a properly sized copper wire being 280,000 kilometers per/ sec or 173,000 miles per/sec. If the connector is a problem ,cut it out and hard wire the circuit. the extra voltage you see at the battery is because regulators produce a discharge voltage between 14 -15.5 volts .