I got this 1995 Suzuki Savage last night knowing it wasn't starting. I assumed I would just have to clean the carb and get a new petcock for it because it was using the old factory one and it was pretty gucked up. So I spent a couple hours cleaning the carb and I put my other tank on it until I can get a raptor petcock in for its tank. I went to start the bike, and it still doesn't start up. I recorded a video of me trying to start it.

https://youtu.be/iM1ipd5UW_U

The bike does have spark, and unless I didn't do a very good job, which I'm pretty sure I did, the carb is cleaned and it should be getting gas. One thing I did notice though is how loud it clicks when you first try and start it, my other savage isn't as loud. Also, if you put it into first, and give it a good hard push, you can hear the piston move, but on my other (working) savage, it's much harder, nearly impossible to push it when its in gear, without dragging the tire that is. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

If it seems easier to push ,you may want to check the decomp adjustment ,it may be holding the exhaust valves open all the time. did you use fogging oil ? that will help raise compression and protect the piston/cylinder from being damaged.

If you checked the spark without a plug in the head, you don't know if it's able to spark AND make compression.
If you don't Know what the battery voltage is While the starter motor is running, you could be chasing a ghost.

A compression test would be conclusive. A leak down test would be best.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/06/17 at 19:05:32:


I'll try that tomorrow. Right now it's kind of torn apart. I was following this guide:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1325991352

And I got to the part where it needs a "feeler gauge", I don't have one of those. Would a spark plug gap opener work as a feeler gauge, or should I order one? I'm almost positive the clearance is too loose.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/06/17 at 23:14:40:


I did pull the plug and make sure the plug was sparking outside of the engine, thats why I figured it might be a compression issue. I'm using a raptor petcock on the "on" position, I don't wanna bother with the old petcock so I'm just borrowing my other bikes tank until I get another raptor petcock.  I'll pick up some ether tomorrow on my way home from work. I've never actually used ether, how much or how little do I squirt into it? And do I squirt it directly into the cylinder where the carb usually connects? I know I sound like a major newb, I'm trying my best to learn, I guess I've gotta start somewhere.

I have another thing for him to check, but seeing that he is still in the early learning stages I won't post what it is until we know everything else is right first. I ran into it on an Intruder last week. Same symptoms, good spark, gets fuel, and good compression. And it stumped a bunch of mechanics that couldn't figure it out. Simple to fix once I found it, but I fear that it would confuse him terribly if I tell him what to check right now.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/07/17 at 01:28:55:


The voltage when the ignition is off is 12.12, voltage when ignition is on is about 11.80, voltage when the engine is trying to turn over is about 9.50. How do I prove its sparking while the spark plug is in the cylinder? I think that's what you meant. Anyways, I went back to one of your other suggestions and sprayed ether into it. I've never used ether and I googled it and it said to spray it directly into the air intake for no more than 3 seconds. I tried firing it up after and it made a really loud pop and started smoking out of the flywheel adjustor hole, I forgot I had left it open.