Gasket picture. Wondering if I should add gasket to the bolt area just left of the chain.

I would not use rtv.

If not rtv, what other kind of gasket maker would I be looking for?

When I said open area, I meant place where the cover comes down. The attached picture should be clearer. I stopped putting rtv where my left finger is, and am wondering if I should put some where my index finger is, closest to the cam chain cog. That goes for both sides of the cam shaft.

Is that where you are saying you put some?

Sounds like I will be re torqueing everything, sealing all around, including the space by the cog,  cleaning up the oil and praying it doesn't leak anymore. If I find more, air pressure test it is.

Thank you

In the pic above ,there should be no sealant  in the area between your fingers,(on either side of the "well" the cam lobes ride in) ,if you look at the underside of the cover you'll see there is no matting surface in that area. I can't really tell where the oil leak is coming from,it's possible that it's from under the brass washer on the head bolts ,it's a good idea to anneal( Heat) the brass washer to make it soft before torqueing the head bolts as there are oil passages around some of them, and the washer acts as a seal.

If you reused the copper washers that go under the head studs - they likely didn't seal well and oil is weeping past the right rear head stud.  The left front and right rear head stud can weep oil.

Take the right front and left rear head stud nuts and washers off, and then clean them really well.  When they are dry put a thin coating of sealant on the bottom and top of the washer, and a thin coating of anti-seize on the threads of the stud - then torque down the nut.  Don't use so much anti-seize that it oozes out onto the bottom of the nut - as you want the nut to get coated with the sealant as you torque down the nut.  Do one at a time to reduce the implied load on the other studs while you are taking the nuts and washers off.

I don't use the generic RTV on the head....use Suzukibond or Three Bond.  It really is different than the generic stuff.  It sets up much slower and gives you time to work - plus you don't have ugly orange sealer that shouts - "my head has been taken off and glued back on".

Tighten the cover down using at least three passes.