So, earlier this spring I stripped the tins off my bike to repaint, and only recently have I been able to put it back together. I have 2 extra bolts from the disassembly/reassembly, but that's another story...

After putting the tins back on and hooking everything back up I put in about a gallon of gas and the bike started right up. Seemed to be idling a little weird, but it was the first time this year, so I thought it might just have some crap in it. Sitting in the driveway, revving it some to keep it going it finally sputtered and died. I tried restarting it and it just kept turning over (the repaint also included replacing the battery that had gone bad & was now fully charged) I start to smell fuel and shut off the Raptor pet and see fuel dripping from the cone air filter.

I drain the carb bowl, remove the air filter and pull the main jet (since it's easily accessible while still on the bike) Couple of things...there is a green film in the bowl and on the floats, there was a piece of debris plugging the main jet, and the floats don't seem to move as smoothly and freely as I would expect.

I use some spray carb cleaner to clean up the floats to some degree and the pivoting mechanism of the floats to help it move more freely. I spray the carb bowl and main jet and get them cleaned up much better. After figuring that the junk in the main jet was probably my biggest problem I put it back together and say a little prayer.

Put the tank back on and reconnect the fuel line, turn on the Raptor and watch the fuel run through the clear line into the carb. It keeps running for a while and next thing you know, there's fuel puking out the vent tubes and running back down across the carb and air filter.  :'(

I start all over again and have now removed the carb from the bike and presume I'm going to have to really break it down to get it working properly. This is the first time I've had the carb off the bike and I'm looking for suggestions/advice on what I should specifically be looking for or needing to fix/clean.

I was using this video from EliteMunkeyCrew as a guide so far, but I have never pulled the diaphragm or top of the carb apart...

https://youtu.be/f9mCtzThqYY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9mCtzThqYY

Idling on the sidestand has been linked to cam damage.
And as stated, your problem is probably in the bowl.
That's where the valve is that shuts off the fuel.
If the float and pin are okay, look at the needle and seat.

Taking the carb apart is scary the first time, but really is pretty easy. A few tips:

1. Have a clean place to work and lay out the parts
2. Don't strip the screws. Use a #2 JIS  screwdriver, or file the tip of a #2 Phillips head until it seats well in the screws.
3. Be gentle with the diaphragm/slide if it is stuck
4. Take photos as you go so you remember which way it goes back together
5. The little plate in the bottom of the slider goes dimple side down (it can be hard to tell from photos)
6. Don't have left over parts when you're finished
7. Wear gloves and clean everything thoroughly before reassembly, especially the needle and slider.
8. If you spray carb cleaner into a hole, it should come out somewhere else. There are no dead-ends.
9. Where eye protection when spraying carb cleaner into the carb. It WILL kick back.
10. If you have a partner who likes to keep your workspace tidy, tell them not to 'tidy up' your carefully laid out parts  
11, And ... the idle mix screw on the side of the carb covers a spring, a tiny washer, and a tiny o-ring which seem to be designed/assembled for the specific purpose of losing one of them!
12. Also, record your jet sizes and needle spacer settings. They'll be handy for later tuning.

You need to check the float,by removing the pin ,to make sure the float doesn't have a leak .You then look over  the float valve itself for a ring grove around the tip ,this would indicate wear and a need for replacement. Next pullout the valve seat and above it there is a very fine filter make sure it is clean and there's nothing stuck in the valve seat .reassemble and be sure to check the float height before replacing the bowl. You will not be able to buy a new diaphragm without buying an entire carb ( I think) ,if you have just a small pin hole there is a product ,made by Goodyear called Pliobond (cement) that would be the best thing for a repair .

That's great news..

piedmontbuckeye wrote on 07/08/17 at 17:11:50:


I did not address it, and so far (knock on wood) it appears to be running without a problem. - I've only ridden it less than 20 miles over the last 3 days though.

Who can explain to me what sort of problems I will want to keep an eye out for with a small pinhole in the diaphragm?

And without repair it may enlarge,over time, and I don't believe you can find one NEW without purchasing a new carb.