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Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manually (Read 446 times)
robb+
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #30 - 09/03/21 at 10:48:28
 
Not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I realized that I should not have ordered the cheap Amazon Raptor petcock. I tested the fuel coming from the line, and it is trickling... which doesn't seem right. Going to order the genuine Yamaha part and get that in there.
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #31 - 09/03/21 at 11:04:03
 
The Yamaha Raptor petcock is the best mod for making your bike dead nuts dependable.
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #32 - 09/03/21 at 11:25:17
 
robb+ wrote on 09/03/21 at 10:48:28:
Not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I realized that I should not have ordered the cheap Amazon Raptor petcock. I tested the fuel coming from the line, and it is trickling... which doesn't seem right. Going to order the genuine Yamaha part and get that in there.


The poor flow from the knockoff petcocks will cause drive-ability problems when the bike is running with the the throttle open, but as long as enough gas is getting to the carb to fill the float bowl the engine should still start and idle. Did you loosen the drain screw and see if you have gas running out the drain on the bottom of the bowl.
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #33 - 09/05/21 at 05:45:37
 
You ain't the first one to buy one that bolts right up but doesn't work.
The OOOficial, honest to goodness ,Factree Yamaha part is your friend. They were almost thirty bucks last time I bought one. Local brick and mortar store.. I know, I Know,, everybody wants to go online, poke a few buttons and wait for the truck..
Spend a few minutes and drop a few pennies in your local economy,, even If it's the Yamaha shop. They can't help that they sell the wrong bikes. They at least have the right petcock.
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #34 - 05/19/22 at 11:27:53
 
I got it to start and idle! I bought a new Duralast gold battery and attached it directly to the leads rather than with jumper cables. It started for a second with starter fluid sprayed into the air-box, so I hooked up the tank with the knock-off petcock and fresh premium. It started and idled while the choke is out! It honestly sounds good, and I'm over the moon about it. Thanks to everyone for the help, especially Dave.

Any amount of throttle or pushing the choke in kills the engine. I think the knockoff petcock is starving it of fuel.

I ordered the proper raptor petcock earlier this week, and that should hopefully arrive tomorrow. I was just getting a little ahead of myself, and I honestly didn't think I would get this far this fast after taking another wack at getting the old thing to start  Grin I'll post back once I get the new PC.
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #35 - 05/24/22 at 10:10:33
 
I need help Tongue  It only idles decent with the choke pulled out and dies pretty quick once pushed in. I got the raptor petcock on, and fuel is flowing good through the carb bowl drain. I tested for a leak around the intake boots with starter fluid but nothing really happened. I did pull the carb and clean just the main and pilot jets, but that didn't make a difference either (I had fully cleaned and rebuilt it last fall and drained the bowl before pausing). My next thought was the idle mix screw but...

The idle mix screw was pretty buggered, so I did the T10 torx method to get it out. I have a carb kit coming because it was cheaper to get that on ebay than a new OE mix screw. I plan to pull the carb again, make sure it's totally clean, and add the new idle mix screw back. It sure seems like the problem is in the carb, but I always suck at these minor adjustment type things. Any thoughts are welcome and appreciated!
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #36 - 05/24/22 at 14:38:53
 
what's your idle jet size?  
Main?  
float level?
did you blow out the ports when you cleaned it?
was it warm when you pushed in the choke?

warning: don't idle it too long with the bike leaning over on the kickstand.  causes oil starvation on one side of the cam.
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #37 - 06/01/22 at 08:41:59
 
I couldn't find the jet size on either pilot or main jet. The float level was off, but I got that back into adjustment. Both jets were clear, and I could see through them. The bike was warm when pushing the choke in.

Also the bike has been on a rear stand for nearly all of the last 7 years, so no sweat with the kickstand idling.

Some bad news. I started yet another carb rebuild with the new kit and good idle mix screw. I had skipped the step when rebuilding previously to remove the two screws holding on the throttle body because they were super stuck and stripped. I was able to get one out with an EZ-out but ended up totally botching the second hole.

After a lot of pacing the garage, I found this Mikuni VM36 replacement tuned for the Savage (sorry Lancer, Murray just has good Google juice) and ordered it:
https://murrayscarbs.com/product/suzuki-boulevard-s40-savage-mikuni-carb-kit-vm3
6-36mm/

I should hopefully be receiving that tomorrow with a new throttle cable, and I'll post here how it goes. I know the last thing I'll need is that Versy cam chain tensioner because I'm at 19k miles with out kinda far. Look out for an email soon my guy  Grin
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #38 - 06/07/22 at 09:30:33
 
I got the new VM36 and holy crap, I was able to ride my motorcycle this past weekend. I've got a couple issues still, and I'll post them below. Let me know if I should start a new thread with either one of these because I knows it helps other people search.

Ok, so the engine RPMs drop when I pull in the clutch lever. I feel like I've adjusted it all sorts of ways and it's still happening. I also noticed that the wheel was spinning when put in first gear on the stand with the clutch pulled in. I just removed the cover to see if everything was working properly with the arm and push rod. It looks normal?

The other less troublesome issue is that my speedometer is running really slow and bouncing all over. I never took the cable of the fuel tank, and I reseated the tranny end with the tab properly.

Thanks again for everyone's sage wisdom and parts!
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #39 - 06/07/22 at 10:50:43
 
its not unusual for the rear wheel to spin with the clutch pulled in and the tire off the ground, long as its not with any real force.  

The speedo cable could be kinked or just need a good oiling, when they stick it will read slow then spring loose and bounce upto like 100mph.

how fast is your idle, if its trying to die out it might just be a tad to low.  at idle you should be going about 10mph without any chugginess.
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #40 - 06/07/22 at 12:02:27
 
robb+ wrote on 06/07/22 at 09:30:33:
Ok, so the engine RPMs drop when I pull in the clutch lever. I feel like I've adjusted it all sorts of ways and it's still happening. I also noticed that the wheel was spinning when put in first gear on the stand with the clutch pulled in.

There's nothing between the clutch and carb, so if the rpms are dropping then it's in gear?  shouldn't drop in neutral at all.

Check the clutch lever adjustment and where the lever on the case is when just the slack is pulled up.  you can do this by hand on that lever.  If this lever is high compared to the marks on the case, then you need to replace the throw out rod for a longer one.  Too long and bolting down the case will activate the clutch.
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The other less troublesome issue is that my speedometer is running really slow and bouncing all over. I never took the cable of the fuel tank, and I reseated the tranny end with the tab properly.


You can pull out the cable and inspect it.  A kink can be straighten, but broken strands needs to be replaced.
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Re: Engine seems to stop at TDC when turned manual
Reply #41 - 07/14/22 at 08:46:35
 
Through some testing and riding, I figured out the clutch was dragging. After getting the adjustment right, I noticed it would really only start to die and stall after it was warm. I got the clutch cover pulled last night to put in the modified cam chain tensioner (holla versy, you the man), and I decided to take the clutch apart and see what's up. The pitting on the clutch basket is pretty gnarly and I'm sure the cause of the issue. The disks heat up > expand > catch on the basket and don't disengage. I got a replacement clutch basket for $20 on ebay and already had a Barnett clutch pack ordered. I'm in this deep already so why not?

The speedo probably is unfortunately the internal gear. It must not have been sitting right, and it got chewed up. Extra unfortunately is the gear on the transmission is also borked, so I guess I'm not using that anymore. Probably will do a phone mount with an app for that because this thing is going to stay my little reborn hotrod now.

Sorry if I'm just using this post as my personal little rebuild journal now, but I very much appreciate all the help from everyone.
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