The free sag settings on the bike tell us whether we have the correct spring rate. With the correct spring rate we know that the suspension will provide adequate performance so the forks don't fully compress under load (a dangerous condition). There are two sag settings that we need be aware of; "free sag" (the weight of the bike only on the suspension) and "race sag" (the weight of the bike and rider on the suspension). Race sag is a user set value, and Free sag is a result of the set value.

Ideally we want to use 30% of the suspension travel for race sag. The Savage forks have 127mm of travel, so the target race sag is 38mm (1-1/2 inch). I can't find the swingarm travel for a Savage, but my guess it is only 2 to 3 inches, so the race sag would be a little over 1/2 to less than an inch. Lets call it 3/4 inch.

Race sag is adjusted through preloading the springs; washers for the forks and the collar on the shock. Take measurements from fixed points with the suspension completely extended (jacked up) to get baseline measurements. From there have someone steady the bike while you sit on it. Take measurements from the same fixed points. If you overshot the target you need additional preload. If you didn't reach the target you need less.

After these measurements and adjustments have been made it's time to measure the free sag. The target for free sag is about 10mm (probably just 5 for the rear given its limited travel). If your race sag is correct but free sag is less than recommended (10mm) or if the suspension is topping out, a heavier spring rate is indicated. Just the opposite applies, if free sag is more than the target a lighter rated spring may be needed.

piedmontbuckeye wrote on 06/15/17 at 16:01:52:


A "weaker" spring is a spring that does not meet its design specification. You can not alter the rate of a spring through preloading. Preloading does just that, it places a load on the spring. It does not alter or change the rate, i.e. the amount of force required to move the spring a fixed distance such as lb-ft (1 lb of force moves the spring 1 ft).

If a spring doesn't meet it's design spec, it should be replaced, not preloaded.

Ruttly wrote on 06/14/17 at 20:07:28:


The rule is to measure the length of current spring and compare it with the original length of a new spring. Add a spacer (in addition to any existing original spacers) of the same length that the older spring is in comparison to original spring.

Check specs. as with any thing that wears with use (for example: brake rotor thicknesses) it will have predictable wear (shortening) but when it falls under the tolerance permitted, it should be replaced.

You are wrong!  Changing the ring on the back of a bike shock does not raise the bike a bit!  It adds a bit of "pre-load" and thus makes the shock/spring harder to compress - to compensate for the added weight!

On the front adding a spacer will raise it back up to compensate for spring sag.  It has been done for years!  While replacing the springs with either springs of a higher spring rate or with original new springs is an alternative.  Using spacers has done the trick for years and years!

It all depends upon how badly the original springs have compressed and lost their "spring."

Whoever is able to bolster his position with information about suspension and spring rates and all that wins. I'm sure not able to mount an argument against either of you.

Ruttly wrote on 06/17/17 at 07:08:09:


Agreed!  I suspect that both of us are correct in some fashion or another.  Perhaps I am confusing Compression RATE with Compression LOAD.

I just refer back to the rear shocks and how one makes them more resistant to compression and that is the pre-load ring at the bottom.  Allows for more load to compress

From experience, however, we have for years done the extra tube at the top of fork springs to help against front sagging or bottoming out.  Has worked.

I agree however that the best solution is to purchase new springs if old have worn out and allow more sag.  

What bothers me in this whole scenario, is that the question started because a fairly light guy (160 Lbs?) was having the forks bottom out.  That puzzles me.  I am around 200 Lbs. and I have never had front forks bottom out or coil bind.  Except on race bikes where I came down head first on the front wheel!

Seems that there might be another problem than just fork oil quantity or fork spring.  Fork springs last a long time and for one to go bad would be highly unlikely.

Yeah,I SAID it bottomed out a few times. If it Didn't, I sure would hate to be there if it ever does. I didn't Measure anything. I saw signs of fork travel, but didn't SEE if it was enough to bottom out. I guess I bottomed it. It was painfully violent, but it was also a surprise. Going in and out of bright sun and dark shadows on roads that are very minimally traveled and far from the concerns of the road and bridge guys. The parts that invite a spirited approach lead into some places that look okay on approach, but there can be hidden hazards. A couple of times I fully expected a fork oil spray.
If I didn't bottom out and bottoming out is more violent than what I have seen, I Sure don't ever want to bottom it out.
It handles fine, no oil leaks, a brake on Push Pull doesn't show excessive travel or any noise.