I'm cornering harder than ever. I'm using the snot outta the front brakes, trying to Not miss a turn. Managed every one. No oil has ever leaked. I'm aware that the seals could get turned wrong side out. Hasn't happened yet, but it will if I don't stop finding hard dips in the shadows.

One may Well NEED to know, but one MAY be completely without training or desire to go digging. When I blow a seal I'll go digging. My neck popped today.. And in a low spot, completely shaded, I slowed down. On exit I looked.
Reported 35, with the Kawasaki front pulley.

I totally missed a dip in the shade on another stretch that bit me twice... tiptoe through and it's not bad..
It's beartraps hidden in the shade,, I gotta learn the roads, and there are So Many good fun turns and straights with little esses you can see all the way through, and there is a slight uphill right bend that straightens on a ridge and then sweeps down to the left. Really a nice piece of road. Can't wait to learn it.

That's something I might try out.
Just a spacer on top of the spring?

piedmontbuckeye wrote on 06/14/17 at 11:27:46:

"Springs are measured in rate (Nm, in-lb), not tension."

Doesn't a higher spring rate create more tension?

Hmmmmm?

Splitting semantic hairs!

Compressing something at both ends creates "compression". Pulling something at both ends creates "tension". They are very different.

Springs are rated in the amout of force required to COMPRESS a known distance.

Very different.

I'm just trying to help you use and understand the correct terms.

Adding more pre-load in the springs maybe beyond your capabilities.
The caps are already hard enough to get on.

But if you do want more, look at the RYCA style caps that have a adjustment screw built into them.

verslagen1 wrote on 06/14/17 at 12:09:45:

But if you do want more, look at the RYCA style caps that have a adjustment screw built into them.

Because of the flange on the OEM fork cap, a cap with preload adjustment can't be used on the upper OEM triple clamp. RYCA does not sell adjustable fork caps.

You can add additional preload on the spring just by adding a washer or two with an OD of 1-1/4" (the ID of our forks is 33mm). I would add them one at a time because just a few mm of preload makes a difference.

But before changing preload, you need to know this: adding washers does not change the rate of the spring, it only effects sag. If a spring does not have the necessary rate for the application, all of the preload in the world will not change a thing. Preloading does not make a spring stiffer.

I have heard of using 1 1/4 " PVC pipe to lengthen the spacer in the fork and place more preload on the spring ,or placing washers on top of the stock spacer which would do the same but decreases the amount of room for the air above the fork oil . how do they differ in effect?

If you don't like the idea of multiple washers and a spacer, you can dial in the preload with washers, and when you get the sag where you need it (about 10 to 15mm) you can remove the spacer and the washer, measure the stack, and replace it with a single piece of PVC at the right length.

Adding washers is as easy as it sounds. Remove the fork cap (one at a time some the forks don't compress) and add a washer. Do the same on the other side. Then measure sag.