Idle speed and mixture should be adjusted to the correct rpm after warm up.

Error on the high side if you have to, low rpm = low oil pressure = death.

If the bike is running ,you don't need a new coil! but you might need a new air filter,if the reason you changed to a raptor was because the stock petcock leaked fuel ,there is only two places it could go 1) into the cylinder to the motor oil sump. 2) out the carb through the filter into the air box ,you drained the air box ,but the filter could be wet or ruined .You don't have a stock muffler ,you need to find out what it is ,ask the PO.You replaced the jets ,stock or larger? what size are they ? If their stock with an after market muffler you could be trying to run the bike extremely lean,and it won't run after pushing in the choke.WE need more info . what is your elevation? new needle valve ? what needle ? jet n. ,float level n., or fuel mix n.?

Your running lean ,you need to tune your fuel screw to get the highest idle ,if the screw is out past 2 1/2 turns you need to go from the stock 52.5 to a 55 jet. You should also do the spacer mod ,2 or 3 steel #4 machine washers .and a larger main jet a150 ,152.5 or155 due to your elevation ( the closer to sea level -the larger the jets needed ,due to the air being denser .)I'd start with the stock idle jet ,the spacer mod and the 150 main ,that should get the bike running , you could fine tune from there.the bike is tuned lean from the factory to pass emission tests,your after market muffler makes the bike run even leaner ,as does your low elevation.You should read through the technical section for how to do these.

batman wrote on 06/05/17 at 21:33:08:



Thanks Batman I'll give it a shot and let you know.

Barrett

@B-Will,

Good luck, I have a similar issue (although seemingly not as bad). After Laconia I'm gonna give this procedure a shot. Let us know how it goes for you

batman wrote on 06/05/17 at 21:33:08:


So I get home from work all excited to try out some of these suggestions.  I figured I'd start with accessing the air fuel mix screw and see what I can do with that.  I drill into the air/fuel screw brass cap, remove it with a little convincing, then use my handy shop vac to clean up the brass shavings.  Phase 1 of Operation Suzuki Resurrection complete.  After reviewing the forum for the 15th time to make sure I understand the procedure, I roll the bike out to the driveway and fire it up to start my idle mix screw adjustments.  I turn the screw 1/2 with no affect.  Next, I keep turning in 1/4 increments with a 20 second pause listening for any hint of RPM fluctuation.  No change.  Then the bike sputters and dies.  Thinking I may have turned the screw too much, I reset it to the original setting and try to start the bike with no luck (Fast forward a couple hours later--I later realized I made a total newb mistake and had my fuel petcock in the off position and the bike probably died when the bowl emptied).

...then something very very weird happened....

I try to start the bike one more time and there is no response--like the battery is completely dead.  Except, and this is the weird part, the green neutral light is still on.  However, the headlights, blinkers, and horn are all inop.  Completely dumbfounded and grasping at straws, I try to jump the bike from my truck with no luck.  I removed the seat and wiggle wires with no luck.  She's dead, except for the green neutral light.

...then it gets weirder...

I'm standing there straddling the bike, pushing the ignition thumb switch in and out, kind of in a daze and in total disbelief.  I stop pushing in the thumb switch and about a second later the headlights turn on, the blinker starts blinking (I had that switch engaged while I was fooling with it), then they all shut off again.

So now I'm wondering if I need to trailer this thing to the Suzuki dealership or to my local priest.

Very frustrating.

Morning Update:  Looking at the wiring diagrams, the neutral indicator light and neutral switch use the frame ground coming from the battery whereas the rest of the stuff uses a second negative lead coming from the battery.  That second negative lead's splice near the battery terminal is probably the culprit.  I bet I brushed up against it last night causing momentary continuity when I was straddling the bike.

It makes sense the failure is in that area. The other day, I re-spliced the negative lead that serves as the frame ground after it came a part in my hands.  The secondary negative lead's splice is probably in the same shape and needs attention as well.

I'll post an update as I learn more.

Congrats, B-Will!

Electrical problems can be a real bear, especially intermittent ones.