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Spark plug inspection technique (Read 219 times)
Ruttly
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #15 - 02/27/17 at 05:52:33
 
Just use a quality pod filter  likes k & n and make sure it doesn't block that side port on front side of carb and jet as needed !
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IslandRoad
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #16 - 02/27/17 at 11:37:01
 
eau de sauvage wrote on 02/25/17 at 21:39:52:
OK so where I am at the moment is that I'm not unhappy with how it is there's no surging, no shutdown poof, no overheating, and there's a tiny bit of throttle shut down pops and crackles which I deem a good thing because I wasn't getting any of that before the dyna and that meant to me that it was not tuned to it's best because deceleration pop is normal.



Eau,
I would say you probably have the bike tuned well. Your settings are pretty standard based on the advice here, and the bike runs well. I think beyond that, we're talking about fine-tuning really.

I found at that stage, without having the experience to draw on, the best thing was to forget about tuning for a few days (or as along as it takes to get a handful of 'normal' rides done, and if there are any problems then the they will show up).

Having said that, if you want to keep chasing down the 'ultimate' settings for your riding style (and I wouldn't blame you, I find it fun to do, and I found a few other things that needed attention along the way), then you probably need to keep moving the settings until the performance drops (going too rich) then go back one step and you know you're getting the most out of it. However, I found that can still require running the bike a few times in normal riding conditions to get a sense of the difference - or pushing the bike hard in test runs to feel the drop in pull during acceleration.

That's just my take on it anyway  Smiley


BTW, my spacer was around 3 mm thick, the same as yours. I initially moved it down one notch (equivalent of 0.75 of original size) and found it didn't resolve the issues. At around 0.5 or 0.6 (3 or 4 of 6 SS washers on the original notch) it did the trick.
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IslandRoad
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #17 - 02/27/17 at 11:45:37
 
LANCER wrote on 02/26/17 at 04:30:17:
The difference between the 52.5 & 55 pilot jets is not just one huge step between them.  The jets are closer to each other than that.  There is overlap from 50 to 52.5 to 55, etc.  If you have the 52.5 installed and have tuned properly and the setting is at say 2.5 turns out, then switched to the 55 pilot jet and when tuned you find you are at 1.5 turns out...the end result of the change is the same, the fuel flow is the same, this is the overlap you are seeing.
The general rule of thumb is that when changing one main jet size you will be adjusting one full turn on the pilot screw ...



Thanks for pointing that out Lancer. I assumed a larger pilot always meant more fuel and less fuel economy. Your explanation makes that part of the tuning much simpler  Smiley
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eau de sauvage
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #18 - 02/27/17 at 13:50:00
 
LANCER wrote on 02/26/17 at 04:30:17:
The difference between the 52.5 & 55...snip...
I hope this is helpful.


It sure is Lancer, that info is golden and should be somewhere in the tech carb tuning guide. That info on the pilots is what I suspected but no one said it directly so imagine how confusing it is for me when I've already stated ages ago that I moved from a 52.5 to a 55 and I had it at 1 3/4 turns out, then a couple of people who should know better say that they think 55 is too much.  


@Island, don't worry I have no intention of interminably playing with the tuning. I was just worrying about having the 55 in, unnecessarily as it turned out. BTW, what milage do you get from full to reserve. When I got it I was getting about 190kms a tank, now it's 180 which seems pretty normal. I'm building up the courage to pull my twin carbs off the gs500 and give them a scrub and rejet.
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IslandRoad
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #19 - 02/27/17 at 15:14:31
 
I haven't checked the mileage yet but, I know the distances I ride and am pretty sure I'm within the 'normal range'.
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Ruttly
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #20 - 02/27/17 at 19:02:34
 
Eau , Rather than a small pod filter , get a filter that will fit in that area. Pod filters are small and don't breath well. I'm using a 4" x 4" foam air filter , I think they breath the best , made by Uni Filters. A K & N would work fine too. If possible leave the rubber tube on the carb and put the filter at the end of the tube that way you won't block that port.
I am running a Mikuni VM36 with several up grades that required lots of trial & error to reap best acceleration/Max H/P. I'm almost done !!!
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eau de sauvage
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #21 - 02/27/17 at 19:59:31
 
Ruttly wrote on 02/27/17 at 19:02:34:
snip


OK, can you explain further? Do you mean a foam filter that goes in the airbox? Or somehow can still attach to the carb inlet. Had a look at the http://www.uniflow.com.au site, looks like a good way to go.
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #22 - 02/28/17 at 07:01:52
 
That will work just fine , I didn't know they made those for stock air box !
Foam filters flow better
Or remove box & put tube back on carb and attach filter to tube using a Uni clamp on filter whatever you prefer !
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Re: Spark plug inspection technique
Reply #23 - 03/01/17 at 15:47:03
 
Eau, you previously asked me what mileage I was getting. I did a three  hour trip yesterday - mostly highway cruising at around 110 k/phr. So I checked the mileage.

I'm getting 21km per litre (50mpg).
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S40, 2014, Dyna, Raptor, 52.5/152.5, spacer mod, sea level, cat-eye LED tail light, bullet style halogen turn signals, 'Superbars' with custom 40mm risers, modified stock seat, Metzeler tyres.
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