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DIY mid controls (Read 2238 times)
tzutzu42
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #60 - 01/11/23 at 08:14:25
 
Where the return spring sit
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ohiomoto
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #61 - 01/11/23 at 20:19:01
 
tzutzu42 wrote on 01/11/23 at 08:08:55:
I pretty much followed the exact mid control set up like you did. Thanks for your post, I really like your set up ideal!
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Thanks!  I'm glad you were able to use the information and I like what you have done, BUT...

For the safety of you and/or anyone else who may end up with your bike, please consider the quality of the finished product pictured below.  



First, it looks like only half of the square tube is actually welded to the frame bracket???  

Second, the welds look suspect

I'm only pointing this out because someone's life might depend on it.

You've done the hard work.  It might be worth having a pro go over your welds or even fabricate new brackets based on the ones you built.  

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ohiomoto
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #62 - 01/11/23 at 20:37:31
 
I'm not picking on your work, I love it.  I just want you to be safe!!  

I used the OEM brackets to give me the bolt needed bolt pattern.  I added some extra material to the bottom and welded all sides of the tubing to the bracket.  




I'm not a pro welder (and I borrowed a 110v Mig welder that struggled a bit), but I know I got good penetration.  I really struggled to get that thing to burn hot enough and I had to run the wire feed faster than I would have liked.  The result was I put down a little more weld than I would have liked but it was the only way I could keep a pool of material hot enough to get some penetration on the work pieces.  (I think thinner wire might have helped but I'm not sure.  I know I could have done better on a 220v mig or a tig with a little practice.)  


   





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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #63 - 09/26/23 at 12:10:55
 
I'm just finishing up my mid controls following in the style of those in this thread. I polled the group for ideas on a rear brake light switch and didn't get any, so I thought I'd contribute my solution. Starting at the stock switch, I made a Z shaped bracket that moved it outboard and up, nearly against the swing arm. To activate it, I welded an L shaped bracket to the arm on the pedal shaft to which the brake rod attaches. Then I ran a spring with a long "tail" down between the peg mounting plate and the swing arm. Adjust to suit, and done.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #64 - 09/26/23 at 12:21:44
 
View from under bike looking up. The tab to which the spring is attached is welded to the brake rod lever on the pedal shaft.
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ohiomoto
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #65 - 09/26/23 at 18:45:09
 
Simple and effective.  Some would say elegant.  Nice!

Please post your shift linkage and brake pedal when you get a chance.

Also, do you have a plan for the sidestand?  

I tried to keep the stock kickstand and safety switch, but it's anything but safe.  It was a lazy solution.   I thought it was far enough under the bike, but it hangs too low.  I'm leaning toward a weld-on stand.  I've also considered the peg bracket, my mind isn't seeing it.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #66 - 09/26/23 at 19:34:01
 
The shifter set up is simple.  I used an XS650 shift lever with the splines drilled out. Welded an arm on it and kept the center to center length the same as the factory arm that's on the shifter shaft. That kept the relative movement between the two at 1:1. I welded a flat tab on the XS400 foot peg bracket, and then welded a pivot shaft for the lever on that. The relay rod is a hybrid with 6 MM threads on one end for the stock arm and 1/4-28 on the other end for a Heim joint.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #67 - 09/26/23 at 19:40:36
 
ohiomoto wrote on 09/26/23 at 18:45:09:
Also, do you have a plan for the sidestand?  


I finished the side stand today. I ordered a 10 MM X 200 MM bolt to replace the stock 180 MM motor mount bolt and it's supposed to arrive tomorrow (9-27-23). As soon as I get it I'll post my solution. It's a different approach, but solves the problem of loss of ground clearance under the bracket.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #68 - 09/27/23 at 15:58:31
 
As I approached the side stand project, the well known problems with ground clearance caused by repurposing the stock part became apparent, so I went digging through my parts stash for alternatives. A bent and junked XS650 frame (never throw anything away) yielded a possible solution. The XS650 stand had a couple of advantages over all the others. First, it mounted with the pivot facing inboard, which keeps it closer to the centerline of the bike. Second, it's a self contained package which doesn't require figuring out where the upper spring mount should be. The job required using the forged mounting lug from the frame, or the ability to machine one that's functionally the same. The bracket uses the rear engine mounting bolt and a crossmember similar to the Ryca stand.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #69 - 09/27/23 at 16:01:47
 
The unassembled parts, including the M10 X 200MM bolt that arrived on schedule from McMaster-Carr.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #70 - 09/27/23 at 16:06:24
 
Assembled stand viewed from inboard side. The two holes are for the crossmember bolts .
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #71 - 09/27/23 at 16:08:14
 
Outboard side. The M10 bolt passes through the hole.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #72 - 09/27/23 at 16:13:03
 
Crossmember. The M10 mounting bolt only passes through Ryca's piece on the left side and utilizes the tab holding the brake cable on the right. I added a tab through which the mounting bolt passes to the right side, in addition to using the existing frame tab.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #73 - 09/27/23 at 16:18:23
 
Stand retracted.
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Bob Scogin
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Re: DIY mid controls
Reply #74 - 09/27/23 at 16:19:48
 
Stand deployed.
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