Hello im am doing home tracker build and I noticed that the engine I right in the way of any rock and being aluminum , it might be easy to punch a whole straight through it, so I was wondering I any one here has ever made a bash plate for their savage?

Aluminum plate. Couple of clamps. Look at where you want it, close your eyes, envision the solution. Build it.

A "tracker" is not really a dual sport or adventure bike, and normally they stay on the street and don't need a bash plate.  Trackers are modeled after the bikes that race on circle dirt tracks......and they race on oval tracks that are graded smooth at the beginning of the race - but it can get some ruts or holes by the end of the race.

Are you planning on doing some serious off roading in the rocks?

You can make a skid/bash plate if you want the look, or believe you are going to be riding in an area with heavy rocks.

mud flap would do the same thing

Sometimes you can modify an existing one, which might be easier than starting from scratch.  I don't have any pics handy (could snap some later if desired) but I had an extra bash plate for a triumph Scrambler laying around that was a reasonably close fit.  Works well.  It's not for sliding over boulders, but works well for thrown gravel and lighter impacts.  It has to be removed for oil changes but that's only 4 bolts.

My bike is a street mostly scrambler, with frequent gravel roads and mild FS roads, but I occassionally end up in " rougher than intended" situations, so I think it makes sense to put some mild protection there.

Just welded a flat plate up front, then used the triumph frame rail tabs (they just hook over the frame and snug down with bolts.   The savage frame is near or in the rear, so I had to slot at the bash plate to fit. I'm not real happy with the fit and then on the rear after all, so I plan to weld the tabs to the frame instead at the next oil change.

Would this affect cooling at all?

I like Axman's design ,but I would  go a step farther by drilling a pair of holes front and back and sawing between the to make a slot in the bottom of the plate centered just below the oil drain plug,this would give you room for a wrench to remove the plug. IF you made a cut from the center of the slot ,opposite the plug and bent the resulting triangles upward and welded a small piece of angle iron to them ,the plug would come out and the oil behind would hit the inverted v and be deflected downward into your oil drain pan,saving removal at every oil change.