I must have done something wrong, because I had a pretty easy time mounting my dyna.

Loosen the header bolts at the end to allow the header pipe to move around a little as needed.

Since the dyna  muffler doesn't slip on all the way to the stop ring, I cut the tail of the header pipe just enough to allow the muffler to hit the stop ring. I think I was able to cut on the section there the inner and outer pipe still come together, not on the part where the pipe swells and the two pipes separate.

Cut a few slots in the dyna inlet, not long enough to cause holes when the muffler is pushed up against the stop ring.

I wrapped a couple of layers of asbestos gasket material around the header pipe. Enough to fill the difference between the sloppy fit of the header pipe and muffler. It serves the same function as the soft gasket in the inlet of the stock muffler. I don't know if you can get this stuff anymore. I got it when I inherited stuff from my grandfather's garage. Thanks, Grandpa!

Use a really good t-bolt clamp the will clamp around the entire pipe joint. The wider the better.

Mount the muffler to the muffler bracket using only one bolt. Bend the stock muffler bracket as needed to line everything up.

Snug, but don't tighten the rail mounting bolt and the head clamp bolts at the head. Allow for some movement.

Tighten the t-bolt clamp. If the alignment between the header and the muffler is a little off, the slots cut in the muffler inlet will allow the inlet to bend a little as needed. Sock this clamp down hard.

Finish by tightening up the head clamp bolts and the muffler rail bolt. Stick a 4 in shield over the joint to hide it.

This method worked great for me. the muffler does blow a little soot on the rear brake lever, but so what. The muffler doesn't blow directly on the brake lever. Bending the stock mounting bracket on the bike helped with that.  I got a nice straight-looking line between the header and muffler without that droopy look caused by the angled adapter.

Both of those look good

I think that asbestos wrap probably made the job a bit simpler!

Not much of that stuff around these days.


I ended up following the same install guide as you. Second time round it all seemed pretty simple really

Originally, I had it stuck in my head that I wanted both bolts connected on the rail - I got over that pretty quickly after trying to re-jet with exhaust leaks - ya live and learn I suppose  



bobert_FSO wrote on 01/04/17 at 09:24:19:

I just covered the header to Dyna joint with aluminum foil and high-temp silicone. The tin can didn't work for me. The foil is glued to the joint and the clamp squeezes it down around the joint for a leak free fit. Once clamped you can't see the foil. Looks very professional!  

For the mount, I used a mending strip (http://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Builders-Hardware-Mending-Plate...) to locate the Dyna correctly AND use 2 bolts to hold it on. Technically 4 bolts. 2 to hold the strip to the bike and 2 to mount the Dyna to the strip.

I use strips cut from soda cans, it is much thinner than soup or veggie cans, wrap the header end a couple of times, then tap the muffler in place with a soft hammer, and then tighten it down with a heavy steel bracket.
Part #31-2112 on www.vtwinmfg.com




Alignment is done with slightly loosened header bolts so the header/muffler can be moved with a little effort and header/muffler alignment is maintained.  Position the muffler as desired and then you can bend the mounting bracket a little to match one of the bolt holes with the muffler.

Eau, I didn't measure the header when I had the muffler off, bit I took some pictures. This is the header.

This is the connection with the bumps still there. You can see it pulls up short.