yes, both have sealing washers.
L130 is the oil supply route for the head.

did you break them or strip them?

They both snapped I was using a click torque wrench and it didn't click so I kept going and it was going with ease and of course they both snapped.

Dave,

I never broke of a bolt or a stud until I bought my first torque wrench.

That being said; what is the best torque wrench to purchase for using the 8 ft/lb setting?

Kenny G

Quote:


I use a beam type torque wrench calibrated in inch pounds with a 3/8s drive for projects like this. Never let me down.

Other than big hardened bolts on an engine assembly I just make the bolts, or nuts on studs, "Good & Tight".

6mm and smaller I use 1/4" drive ratchet.

8mm and up I use 3/8" drive.

I find that a T-Wrench with a socket is easier than a ratchet wrench for uniform tightening.

After I work on something I a take ride and then come back and double check all of the fasteners that I worked on. I use a lot of Blue Loctite and Safety Wire.

As mentioned above, I never broke off a stud or a bolt before I bought my first Torque Wrench. I am going to get a small beam torque wrench.

Kenny G

Even clamping force applied in a pattern that pulls parts together incrementally and using a pattern that allows them to mate flat, working from the middle and working out from there, just snug on the first pass, a couple of pounds on the next, and Feel of what the bolts are telling you. An end wrench is light and short enough to not give you so much leverage that you can't feel the bolt come tight. The head cover doesn't clamp the head gasket, it's The cam bearing carrier. Too much gasket sealer is not okay. I won't use RTV on it. ThreeBond or equivalent,
IF someone is just determined to use a torque wrench then I would get in inch pound wrench. Then I would find something that simulates the installation, like a nut with a spacer approximating the depth of the head cover and ttest a bolt.
I would also replace all the bolts. If you broke two, there is a good chance you brought others just to the break point.


Nobody wants to put something together and find a leak, but it's easier to snug something a hair to stop a weep than weep over breaking things .

Bad as this sux, at Least it didn't strip the head threads out.

Before you start trying to extract the broken bolts, tell us what you have to work with.

Kenny G wrote on 12/31/16 at 07:16:33:


Having a "feel" for how tight to make bolts/nuts is not something that is genetic, and it comes with experience.  (Which could possibly be translated into several broken bolts or stripped threads in a persons apprentice period).  If the broken/stripped bolt is a through bolt, they can easily be replaced and it is a cheap lesson - but bolts that thread into engine cases or frames or oil pans can be a costly lesson.  I have bought used vehicles where the oil pan drain bolt was so tight....the previous owner must have thought the bolt held the engine into the frame!

For years I only had a 1/2" drive 150 ft/lb click wrench, and I found that for torques below 40 ft/lbs the click could not be flt reliably.  I recently got a much smaller 3/8" drive torque wrench, and I use it for those engine bolts that require much smaller torques....like the cylinder head cap bolts.  Being that I am 61 and have a lot of wrenching experience, I have reached a point where I seldom use the torque wrench for chassis bolts or axles.

Harbor Freight has very affordable torque wrenches in all sizes.....I am not sure how accurate or reliable they are - but I am sure they would be better than just "guessing" for anyone going through their learning period (gaining experience).