Sauvage,

I don't think the number of pleats means anything other than the difference in manufacturing equipment and techniques.

Kenny G

The number of pleats is relative to the surface area of the filtering media.  The larger the fold count....the more filter material there is.

How many pleats are too few - I dunno.  They probably all flow fine when new, as the filter paper becomes dirty, the one with more pleats will be able to flow the oil with less restriction.

Bear,

That is about what I pay at a dealer here in Texas for the OEM filter.

I change my filter every time I change oil but I don't think that often is totally necessary.

When I change oil in a motorbike I drain the oil into an aluminum pan, I then allow the oil in the pan to remain in-disturbed for an hour and then dump it into a gallon jug for recycling. I look at the pan for any sludge that may have accumulated. If there is no sludge in the pan I know the air filter and oil filter are doing there job.

Back in the olden times the BSA Gold Star did not have an air filter, nor an oil filter, and we changed oil every 1000 miles. When one changed oil there would be a layer of sludge in the drain pan.

Kenny G

Dan,

I only have 7000 miles on my S40 using the Rotella Synthetic and so far there is no evidence of the clutch slipping.

I understand if the clutch starts slipping a change to Rotella Dino cures the clutch  slipping problem within a few miles.

Kenny G

Running 15w50 isn't helping your bike run cooler ,you'd run cooler running 15 0r 10w 40 ,and your motor would still be protected.50 weight doesn't flow as well ,and causes the motor to run warmer ! 40w, will dissipate heat better.(we've seen this before).

@HAPPYDAN, as far as I know synth is fine as long as it has not friction modifiers. I've been using on my gs for the past 15,000kms with not the slightest problem re slippage.

@Ruttly, at the initial oil change there were lots of grease blobs in the filter, but just one small one on this 6,000km change

@Batman, I ended up using the 15W50 Silkolene Comp 4 because that is what I was using on the GS and I wanted to use the same oil, seeing as they are both 30 year old bikes and the GS runs very cool. I guess it's a bit of a trade off because it's really really hot here for about 6 months of the year the rest of the time it's mostly hot, except when it's warm. I might go to a lighter weight though next oil change just to see if there is a difference because synth is supposed to keep it's viscosity better anyway.

@ditz, ha, after reading up in timing I don't even want to think about it.

I'm waiting for delivery of a motion pro feeler gauge because it was so difficult checking the valve clearances last time with normal gauges, I'll check the plugs then.


FWIW, this is how Fuchs replied to my question about their oil.

Silkolene Comp 4 grades already contain ZDDP, the use of extra additives is unnecessary and we would not recommend it. There are minimum phosphorus levels required for the JASO MA2 standard that our oils meet - therefore you can be sure that any MA2 registered oil will have at least 800ppm phosphorus, and this is always delivered in the form of ZDDP. The typical level of zinc for comp 4 is 1000ppm, phosphorus 900ppm.  

Kind regards

Ajax Yhap
Automotive R+D Chemist

FUCHS Lubricants (UK) plc

There isn't anything you need to do about timing, but Ditz is correct that if you haven't checked your spark plug or adjusted your carb,you could be running lean which will also make you run hotter.(carb is set lean from the factory to meet admission standards) .It's fine to stay with synthetic oil as they could care less about temps as high as 500F ,but I'd still think you'd be better off with 40 weight.with 50w you may have an increase in oil pressure ,but you have a decrease in oil flow,and oil acts as a coolant in any air cooled motor.