Hi All,

A while back, there was some discussion on an aluminum pulley/belt cover made by Skeebo. I’m almost finished with the Street Tracker and the stock pulley cover looks kinda lame. I made some measurements and drew up a cover that I think looks better. It follows the Skeebo design.

The stock cover uses 3 6MM bolts that thread into holes in the case. The Skeebo cover doesn’t use the front lower one. Instead, it looks like it picks up another smaller bolt that actually holds the engine cases together. Take the cover off and you will see what I mean.

Anyhoo, I printed out a cover on card stock and mocked it up on the bike. I think it looks good with the chain conversion. No, it doesn’t have the “fold over” on the top; this is just for a feasibility study. I think I can bend one up. I have gotten lots of practice bending aluminum with this bike. Numerous brackets, fork ears, seat pan, battery tray, etc.

What do you think?

John in Kalifornia

Carguyz,

If you are actually going to make a cover you might want to consider using studs to hold the cover fast.

The 3 different length bolts, and all the spacers and washers and rubber washers can be a Royal PITA to install the cover.

The Japs could have taken a few lessons from the British when it comes to easy assembly of an engine..

Kenny

Carguyz,

I use coupling nuts all the time but it is very difficult to find 6mm coupling nuts. If I could find the coupling nuts I would set up my factory guard like you propose.

I think the next time I have my guard off I am going to use studs and acorn nuts, but I do favor your way of doing it.

Kenny G

Carguyz,

McMaster Carr is a good place to shop.

They also have a selection of Japanese Industrial Screwdrivers which are lifesavers for working on Jap carburetors.

I have also bought a lot the Vibration-Damping Sandwich Mounts from McMaster.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-damping-sandwich-mounts/=154e8d7

Kenny G

I would just make spacers and thru bolt it with button allens.

Let's keep this simple.

1. Use the stock cover. No need to change bolts, studs, futz around with spacers, etc.

2. Copy the top two slots down three times, using the same spacing and slot width. The bottom two new slots will be exactly in line with the original top two, same length also.

3.  The middle slot will have to be shorter at the aft end to clear the mounting bolt. To make it symmetrical, center it fore and aft with the other slots. Or else, leave the front of the slot in line with the others.

4. Cut back the aft end of the cover at the top so that it makes a radius that is the same as the lower aft edge. In other words, the distance from the rear of the top slot to the edge of the cover should be the same as the distance from the rear of the new bottom slot to the edge of the cover. You can see what I mean, make it symmetrical.

Check the mock up picture. I think this will look pretty good without doing any sheet metal work. Just have to be careful cutting the slots to make it neat. If you paint the cover the same as the engine the angled parting line will not be too apparent.

BTW, the lack of a chain guard isn't a problem. This bike has a high pipe which keeps your leg away from the chain.

John in Kalifornia