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Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40 (Read 839 times)
verslagen1
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #30 - 11/14/16 at 07:41:01
 
piedmontbuckeye wrote on 11/04/16 at 12:12:09:
Thanks for all your responses.  Since I have been a Lucas fan for many years now in my other vehicles, I went with their motorcycle 10-40 oil with the markings "specially designed for wet clutches"

I also mixed in their synthetic oil stabilizer at their recommended 10% for wet clutch applications.

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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #31 - 11/14/16 at 07:50:42
 
verslagen1 wrote on 11/14/16 at 07:41:01:
piedmontbuckeye wrote on 11/04/16 at 12:12:09:
Thanks for all your responses.  Since I have been a Lucas fan for many years now in my other vehicles, I went with their motorcycle 10-40 oil with the markings "specially designed for wet clutches"

I also mixed in their synthetic oil stabilizer at their recommended 10% for wet clutch applications.



OH!.....Nevermind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3FnpaWQJO0

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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #32 - 11/14/16 at 20:52:34
 
I think I might be confused. Okay, I guess I am,,
So, did he Ask a question? Did he want advice? Or, did he just announce what he was doing?
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #33 - 11/14/16 at 22:12:18
 
Whatever! he's probably going to run 20w50 in the summer thinking it's going to run cooler.I think he 's looking for Lucas converts.
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #34 - 11/15/16 at 04:39:21
 
piedmontbuckeye wrote on 10/30/16 at 05:21:41:
I just moved here from the BMW world (old Airheads) and am wondering what people have used or not used in their S40's.

I had been a fan of Lucas Oil products, and want to use their oil in my S40.  Is it OK to use a semi-synthetic or even a full synthetic?

I now live in upstate South Carolina (moved here from Ohio - go Bucks!!) and the summer temps approach mid-90's to 100 degrees.  Winters fall back down to around 25 deg.  I want to ride this thing pretty much year round, so if I simply use semi-synthetic 10W-40 all the time would that be good?  Or...would one go 20W-50 in hot summer, and maybe even 5W-30 in colder winter?



It appears he wants to know what we use.  (Rotella or Rottela T)

He wants to run Lucas, and wants to know if semi synthetic or full synthetic is OK.   (Yes)

He wants to know what oil viscosity he needs to ride year round when temperatures can go from 100 degrees down to 25 degrees.  (They all work except 10W-30 should not be used above 86 degrees - 5W-40 is not in the chart - but it would work just fine).


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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #35 - 11/15/16 at 05:31:57
 
"I want to wash my feet .. should I use tap water, distilled water or Perrier?"

Wink
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #36 - 11/15/16 at 06:46:32
 
The thread started out OK.....then it morphed into an "oil war thread".  Sorry if I somehow fanned the flames.

Maybe we need to send all oil thread discussion to the Tall Table as soon as they are posted! Huh
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« Last Edit: 11/15/16 at 08:50:19 by Dave »  

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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #37 - 11/15/16 at 15:29:43
 
Papa Bear ,if your going to wash your feet you should use soap! Smiley
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #38 - 11/15/16 at 15:45:47
 
Oil & Tire Wars....

...the scourges of 'cycle forums rverywhere.
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #39 - 11/15/16 at 17:58:53
 
batman wrote on 11/15/16 at 15:29:43:
Papa Bear ,if your going to wash your feet you should use soap! Smiley


The things you learn on a motorcycle forum!  Grin
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #40 - 11/16/16 at 14:11:29
 
Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 11/13/16 at 18:03:49:

Good, he begins to understand some little bit about ZDDP .... now let's revisit the slipping clutch plates thing again.  The oil wetted clutch plates (his old BMW airhead buds have a dry clutch that does not share space with the engine oil at all so what the BMW guys recommend for additives might not be the best thing for a Savage).

Exactly which oil stabilizer exactly was he recommending from the BMW airhead guys, which exact Lucas product was that again ???


If you carefully read my comments and questions, I NEVER said that ANY BMW guys recommended Lucas - that is except for me!

I DID use an additive:  Lucas oil stabilizer at a 5 to 10% mixture (for wet clutches) as opposed to its normal 20% mixture for regular engines and trannys without wet clutches!
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #41 - 11/17/16 at 20:16:34
 

Piedmontbuckeye. there is a need for some very SPECIFIC information here.  

You have said you are using a product that investigation in the past on "Lucas Oil Treatments" has had Lucas very own petroleum engineers say was NOT recommended for motorcycle wet clutch application use.   This was in line with Lucas's own posted printed tech information but it was in conflict with the sales promotional materials at that time.   You know, pesky oil engineers saying no and sales guys saying "hey, a new market over there that needs to be taken advantage of."

We can't even investigate what uses the stuff is currently advertised to do because you haven't told us what it is.   Please show us some pictures of the bottles, please.  Give us a reference to the misleading adverts too, if you can find them for us.

I have been involved in too many newbies coming here trying to clean up clutch plates that were contaminated by both energy star oils and "thickness modifiers" (yes, your older Lucas oil treatment stuff was based a long hydrocarbon polymer thickness modifier) to let this stay over here in factual land without backup references.  

Perhaps this is a new product, or perhaps it is the marketing guys are again trying to sell something potentially harmful to the wet clutch guys again that their own petroleum and applications engineers won't approve when directly asked -- with Lucas it has gone that way before, but once again this time may be different and this may be a new product completely, we can't know until you start posting real information.

And, although you didn't even know what an oil war was, you have indeed gotten involved in one by making statements and offering opinions that are not backed up by any factual information.   Information that comes from users of a different brand of motorcycle that has a dry plate (automotive style) bv clutch.

Or else you are here simply because we will respond to you, and you are just having a discussion.   Great, we discuss all sorts of stuff over in the Cafe area.   Rubber Side Down is kept completely factual as it is read by new people who cannot separate "opinion" from best practices.   In Rubber Side down we stick to best practices, things proven and known.

In Rubber Side Down we always try to support what we say with links and tech references.  Right now we don't know which Lucas oil you are using (exactly, specifically) and we certainly don't know which Lucas oil modifier you are using.  

My main concern is that is Lucas selling their stuff again in a misleading manner similar to what they have done in the past, or perhaps the airhead BMW guys simply have got a trick that works in their environment that might cause damage to a Savage if used here inside our Big Singles.

You need to tell us what you are using, good buddy.   Nobody can respond to you until you do.

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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #42 - 11/19/16 at 06:03:56
 
Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 11/17/16 at 20:16:34:

Piedmontbuckeye. there is a need for some very SPECIFIC information here.  

You have said you are using a product that investigation in the past on "Lucas Oil Treatments" has had Lucas very own petroleum engineers say was NOT recommended for motorcycle wet clutch application use.   This was in line with Lucas's own posted printed tech information but it was in conflict with the sales promotional materials at that time.   You know, pesky oil engineers saying no and sales guys saying "hey, a new market over there that needs to be taken advantage of."

We can't even investigate what uses the stuff is currently advertised to do because you haven't told us what it is.   Please show us some pictures of the bottles, please.  Give us a reference to the misleading adverts too, if you can find them for us.

I have been involved in too many newbies coming here trying to clean up clutch plates that were contaminated by both energy star oils and "thickness modifiers" (yes, your older Lucas oil treatment stuff was based a long hydrocarbon polymer thickness modifier) to let this stay over here in factual land without backup references.  

Perhaps this is a new product, or perhaps it is the marketing guys are again trying to sell something potentially harmful to the wet clutch guys again that their own petroleum and applications engineers won't approve when directly asked -- with Lucas it has gone that way before, but once again this time may be different and this may be a new product completely, we can't know until you start posting real information.

And, although you didn't even know what an oil war was, you have indeed gotten involved in one by making statements and offering opinions that are not backed up by any factual information.   Information that comes from users of a different brand of motorcycle that has a dry plate (automotive style) bv clutch.

Or else you are here simply because we will respond to you, and you are just having a discussion.   Great, we discuss all sorts of stuff over in the Cafe area.   Rubber Side Down is kept completely factual as it is read by new people who cannot separate "opinion" from best practices.   In Rubber Side down we stick to best practices, things proven and known.

In Rubber Side Down we always try to support what we say with links and tech references.  Right now we don't know which Lucas oil you are using (exactly, specifically) and we certainly don't know which Lucas oil modifier you are using.  

My main concern is that is Lucas selling their stuff again in a misleading manner similar to what they have done in the past, or perhaps the airhead BMW guys simply have got a trick that works in their environment that might cause damage to a Savage if used here inside our Big Singles.

You need to tell us what you are using, good buddy.   Nobody can respond to you until you do.


I didn't start this thread to cause an  "oil war" and yes I am fully aware that they exist as I have been around the block or two.  I also resent your implications regarding my BMW past as though I wasn't aware of any other consideration than my being used to a "dry clutch.

I HAVE specifically stated what product I am using but I didn't do so because I wanted YOUR approval.

I only stated that your (most of them) responses are not substantiated with any sort of back up facts.  I didn't criticize any's oil suggestion as I don't have any "facts" to be critical of them.  I did state that you (generic "you") seem to be using the Shell Rotella as a benchmark and if any other suggests anything that doesn't match YOUR benchmark you (also generic "you") seem to attack it.

For example, someone has mentioned 2,000 ppm as the amount one needs of ZDDP to have in their oil.  Where does this number come from?  Just because that is what Shell has in its oil (if it really does have that amount)?  Why not 1,900"  or 1,800? Where is the correct LOW number as needed and defined SCIENTIFICALLY and on this particular product (i.e. the Suzuki)?  Could other factors affect things?  Like the Suzuki having a poor lubrication system that is weak on upper end lubrication?  I am not saying it does, but this is just ONE factor that could affect things and oil choice.  I have been around enough (and BMW people are far more cognizant of these things than you think.  Perhaps there is another war going on here?

I think the most common sense response above by one person is that when properly oiled (i.e. changed and kept clean, etc.) almost any oil would work and work well.  I am (and have been for years) aware about the ZDDP issue, so I would NEVER use a regular car oil in my bike, but I remember using (years ago) regular auto oil in virtually all of my "wet clutch" bikes including using an oil that was specifically designed for racing engines with NO issues with my wet clutches!


Get over yourself.  You are probably impressing others, but not me!
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #43 - 11/19/16 at 06:35:48
 
Well said. I don't see an "oil war" either ... nor the need for one.

My post was to state that Rotella T "conventional" JASO MA is more than adequate for the job -  cheap and readily accessible.

My SYM Wolf 150 (IIRC) calls for "10W-30 SH motor oil or better".
SH is obsolete from the 1990's ( http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm ) and the S40 is similar in it's manual.

If someone wants to wash their feet in Perrier then go for it - it won't hurt a thing (except wallet)  Wink
Certainly not worth fighting over ..... I can defend my statement... but I won't "fight" over it.
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Re: Oil questions for newbie for 2011 S40
Reply #44 - 11/19/16 at 07:00:37
 
Papa Bear wrote on 11/19/16 at 06:35:48:
Well said. I don't see an "oil war" either ... nor the need for one.

My post was to state that Rotella T "conventional" JASO MA is more than adequate for the job -  cheap and readily accessible.

My SYM Wolf 150 (IIRC) calls for "10W-30 SH motor oil or better".
SH is obsolete from the 1990's ( http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm ) and the S40 is similar in it's manual.

If someone wants to wash their feet in Perrier then go for it - it won't hurt a thing (except wallet)  Wink
Certainly not worth fighting over ..... I can defend my statement... but I won't "fight" over it.
(fight is war (bad), defend is communication, education, growth (good))


Your comments were fine and GREATLY appreciated!  I will in the future probably change to the Shell.  However, for those who want to fight a war - go ahead.  Doesn't help me at all, and doesn't really respond to my original question.  I had only first mentioned the Lucas as that was what I have trusted in the past, and put in when I first got my Suzuki as I wanted to make sure that the oil was fresh and new - one can never trust previous owner's word as to when he/she last changed oil.  Next I want to do the front forks just to make sure that they don't "sludge" up.  I have seen too many bikes that owners simply just don't properly maintain and the bikes end up with all sorts of problems.
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