A few of the big singles out there use a compression release with a thumb lever on the handlebar.
I've ditched the whole decompression gizmo. Not crazy about the foot operated. Kinda thinking there will be times that I can't take my left hand of the bar and reach down to the RYCA type lever on the side of the head.
Wondering if anyone did a handlebar mounted decomp lever?
What goodies did you use?
thanks,
-Armen

I made one for my bike, then one winter I made a few sets and sold them.  With your skill/tools you won't have any trouble making one.

I used a BMX left brake lever, the stock clamp size is 7/8" for my clip-ons, and I bored the clamp out to 1" for the stock bars.  I had to lengthen the decompression lever on the head to allow more travel and leverage.  I also had to modify the cable mount on the head to match the longer lever.  I bought stainless bicycle cable inner/outer to make the longer cable, and machined brass ends to solder to the cable.  The only really tricky part was learning how to solder to the Teflon coated stainless cable - you need to sand/scrape the cable end to get the Teflon off, then put some liquid acid flux on the cable end.  Then....the cable is so small it is easy to overheat it while trying to use a torch - it is much easier to use a small piece of steel clamped in a vice, and melt the solder on the steel and dip the cable end in the molten solder to tin it.  Once that is done it is easy to heat the cable and brass fitting to solder them together.

Here is the text/photos copied from my Bike Build.

I went to the local bicycle store and bought a left brake lever for a BMX bike.  The length of pull is far more than the compression release and I was worried about being strong enough to pull the lever....or breaking the cable.....so I made a longer decompression lever that would match the distance between the pivot point and cable on the lever. I had to make a new mount that would put the cable in line with the new lever.  The new parts are painted black.


I then mounted them on the engine and I use a bicycle brake cable that I cut to length and soldered on a proper end fitting.


I then mounted the new bicycle brake lever on my clip ons.  I had to angle the lever up a bit - so it did not hit the passing light switch when I pulled it in.



It seems to work proper now.  I have enough leverage to pull the exhaust valves open with my fingers.

 

With your skill/tools you won't have any trouble making one.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/19/16 at 05:56:59:


On that black arm shown in the photo....I cut it out of sheet metal, bent it to shape, and drilled a round hole and filed it to the shape with the flat spots.  On the kits, I bought 2 levers and cut them apart with a long stem on each half, and welded them back together with a longer throw on the arm.

On the kits....I also added a coil spring over the decompression end to help push the lever down to the rest position.

My momma says anything that will drill a square hole is of the Devil.

Howcum it doesn't mangle the plate with the square hole?
I wonder what spending a day with the guy who came up with that would be like..

I found a lever on eBay; it was 7/8 so drilled and then used a barrel shaped sander on it; got a Barnett cable for it.
Works fine.

Brownells gunsmithing supply sells THE BEST solder and flux.  High force 44 solder and the flux for it is called Comet flux.  The flux is the best I've ever found for putting parts together, plumbing and electric.  The solder flows at a decent temp and holds very well.  I've gotten spoiled and use the flux for everything, the solder for joing parts.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/19/16 at 05:56:59:



I really didn't see a square hole.
The easy fix is a mill in a drill press and a vise that tavels.
Or, carefully spaced drilled holes, and a file.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/20/16 at 09:06:56:


I was thinking two holes and a file myself.