-Hello all and thanks in advance for any help you may provide. The bike in question is a 2003 model year.

I am putting my electrical back together after making some modifications and I have some basic questions about interfacing new items with the existing electrical system and how to test individual electrical items as they are assembled.

1. I have bar end turn signals that have 2 wires, a red and a black, after removing the original turn signals from the forks I am left with three wires (black, black/white, and grey). How should these be connected to the new turn signal wires?

2. I have an integrated LED strip rear taillight/brake/turn signal with the following wire assignments:

Green=Right Signal
Yellow=Left Signal
Red=Brake
White=Running Light
Black=Negative

How should this be connected to the original wiring?

3. I have removed the Decomp solenoid and placed a manual Decomp lever and have attempted to follow the Ryca clutch mod simplified wiring diagram. My question here is, they do not specify which wire by referencing the location of it in the connector in cases where there are two wires of the same color, does that mean it does not matter?

4. After connecting each item can I test it individually before hooking everything back up and trying the whole systems functionality? If so, how?

5. Along the same lines as 4 does everything need to be connected to work? For instance, if all the wiring connections are made except say the tank is left off, so the speedo and indicator lights are not attached, should I be able to turn on the headlight/tailight/signals?

I have attached the Wiring diagram image link as I believe it to be right now(however connections made between wires of the same color could be swapped) with the modified connections in red pen drawn in:

Thanks!

zuluwhiskeycharlie wrote on 09/01/16 at 14:13:21:


If the bulbs are 2 filament, then ground will be the frame.
Otherwise the black is usually ground.
on the zuki, ground is black with a white stripe everywhere.
a black wire would have power to it at some point.

turn the power on and hit the turn signal, the intermittent signal will be the brighter filament.
the dimmer of the 2 will be the running light.

zuluwhiskeycharlie wrote on 09/01/16 at 14:13:21:


The tank can be left off.

I had a test light, but my problem was I had a blown fuse and didn't know it.

Most likely the problem you are having with the front turn signals, is the flasher is mechanical and does not work with LED lights.  You need to get a 2 wire solid state flasher unit. (On right side of frame under tank, just in front of the decompression solenoid and across from the coil).  You want to have the red wires connected to the black and green wires....ground to the black/white wires as you have already figured out).

Hey Batman, Thanks for the advice, I just tried reconnecting with tank and it worked without the Flasher unit! The cycle rate is a bit High, but barely noticeable.

ya I actually like the higher rate, I think it catches the eye better. You wouldn't know how to wire up an integrated rear taillight (Question 2) would you?