Both fenders being silver paint was also somewhat common on the "enduro" bikes of the period.

snels516 wrote on 01/16/18 at 07:24:54:
--------------------

There is very small chance in hell that I'll make mid controls for sale.   Maybe if I were retired.  

It's a lot of work to hand cut, grind and drill the parts, and I borrowed my buddy's welder.  Plus, I made the brackets to fit the parts I found.  You might find different parts.

I would recommend using Rycas rear set adapter and then make some plates to accommodate the mid controls you end up with.

Mother nature is messing with my ski season.  It was so warm here today That my car said it was in the mid 70s today which meant I was putting the Show on the road today.  (See what I did there?! )

Thank you.  I have been really happy with the way the mid-controls came out.  I recommend it.

Well, it seems as though my second full season of riding since the "completion" of this build is about wrapped up.  The bike has been really solid so far.  Mainly just basic maintenance stuff. I'm on my second set of front brake pads, second rear tire, second mini speedometer, I adjusted the valves and finally got around to installing my Varsey chain tensioner.  

As we go into winter, I have a few "plans" for the bike, but to be honest, I'll probably do what I did last winter.  Which is nothing!  I'm not super motivated to do anything on the bike.  Partly because I'm really pleased with it as it is.  But also, I would rather spend my time riding it, or my bicycles, golfing, skiing, or hanging out with the family.  

Nope.  I never did the rear fender, so there is no picture.  

Finally got the show on the road for the season and it's a much better ride.

I had Gordy's Goodworks remove 2" the fork tubes.  This allows me to remove the RYCA style spacer I had been running and returns the forks to full travel.  I still have stiffer springs, but I'm running much less oil.  The ride is fantastic.

ohiomoto wrote on 04/23/19 at 06:44:53:

... and returns the forks to full travel.

Emmm...you sure about that? You can only remove 38mm (1-1/2") of fork tube. After that you run the risk of the slider making contact with the bottom triple clamp.

What you have is 13mm of potential interference. I say potential because if the bike is properly sprung and dampened, you should only use 90% of available fork travel during normal operations (hard braking / big bumps). However it is during unexpected operations where you might find yourself picking the bike off the ground (or worse). If you come to a situation where you need that last 1/2" of travel, your slider IS going to make contact with the lower triple clamp - bottoming out the suspension - which could create a situation where the bike is suddenly uncontrollable.

It's an "edge of the envelope" situation, but it now exists. There is a difference between running out of travel (it's jarring) and hammering the bottom of the triple clamp. Hammering the bottom of the triple clamp forces the bike into an up motion which can exceed the rebound of the suspension. At this point the front wheel looses contact with the ground. If this happens during a turn, you'll be on the ground.

I'd put a 1/2" spacer back into the suspension.