Thought about giving Justin a PM about this, but I figure it would be best to just start a discussion. There have been some people to have their clutch cams break. I've been wondering a few things.

1.At what point(s) of adjustment (clutch rod length) is the cam most vulnerable to breakage?

I recall one thread that appeared to say that too far in any direction could cause trouble. I'm curious as to what position Justin's clutch lever was at when his cam broke. If we can get a pattern to this, that would open up the possibility for safe mods. I've been thinking of strengthening my clutch, but Suzuki's design kinda has it locked into being weak. I can put kevlar plates in it, but they cost $75+. If I put in more plates or springs or something, I'll put more stress on that cam. I'm about to buy some different length clutch rods to experiment since they're so cheap. My lever is near the upper mark. I don't understand how I could get any more clutch grip from these rods since I should have play in the lever.

2. I've noticed that it is often said that the cam is sintered metal. I recall finding a thread that mentioned it being not sintered, but simply improperly treated steel. Is there an easy way to fix the cam and make it stronger?

3. If not, maybe we should make a new cam. It's not really a "cam" as we usually know it. The piece basically consists of a couple of offset plates, one to hold the spring, and the other with a dimple for the rod to seat. I've spent quite a bit on hiring machinist lately. They aren't cheap. I'm gonna have to learn how to do this stuff myself.   Tough when you don't have a milling machine.

Now that I have that bolt out so that I can get to the clutch easily, I can do experiments now. I'm gonna worry about simply getting it up and running first, though.

Maybe this can become a useful discussion for others to reference.

cheapnewb24 wrote on 08/11/16 at 14:58:00:


Might be a good idea!  

Crazy question... Do all the clutch plates need to be the same material?

EBC clutch packs use the same material.
I'd imagine the same is true of Barnett clutches.

You could try blancmange as a friction material, though.
It is lighter and much cheaper than the 'brands', but you may have to replace them more often.

HovisPresley wrote on 08/12/16 at 08:38:27:


I actually had to look that up to find out it was a food.   You're dealing with an American here. (started to be all redneck and write 'merkin, but I actually know what those things are )

I was talking about throwing in a kevlar plate or two with the oem cork. I found a good deal on a couple Barnetts. He didn't have 6, though.

This is what I used in mine...  But then I prefer to ride my Thumper, not tinker with it in the garage.
https://www.facebook.com/Windsor-Cycles-184433417412/app/251458316228/

You still seem convinced the clutch is weak for some reason. I'm not sure why. It's not like they fail that often. I might have mentioned another time that my local Suzuki parts guy who specialises in genuine vintage Suzuki NOS parts told me Suzuki uses the same clutch plates in bigger badder motorbikes than the Cabbage. None of these bikes are famous for weak clutches. It's not that I care what you do, I just don't think you'll be able to improve a properly set up stock clutch, or need to.
I guess the more time you waste "improving" things, the less chance you're going to have a motorbike accident.

And yes, there is supposed to be one thick plate in there.

gizzo wrote on 08/12/16 at 14:35:01:


Ol' cheapy is our 'thick' plate.