The Loctite website states that the red is for permanent locking and can only be removed with heat...so if you're wanting to change anything in the future I'd suggest using the blue at most.

The blue is "designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools." That's what I would classify a sprocket as. Even if you're not going to be switching out to different sizes frequently, the sprocket is going to eventually wear out and need to be replaced.

So, I should order another oem splined washer??? Does it need to be replaced every time remove it or something? That's waaay too many washers getting thrown away... Can't I just get by fine by bending/adjusting it or replacing as needed?

Remember.  That pulley/sprocket takes hits going both ways (accel and decel).

That washer is what saves the bacon.  You can reuse it a few times, by bending it in different areas.  Maybe 3 times?
It's only $1.32.. buy a few ..

When I got my "backup bike", I never checked the pulley.  The PO did not bend the washer over.. the results weren't catastrophic, but only because I pay attention to odd noises and the guard that fits over the pulley kept it from departing the motorcycle.

Alright, I'll get a spare or two if they're that cheap.

Yes, ideally, but look up 'metal fatigue'.

cheapnewb24 wrote on 08/11/16 at 14:29:47:


That's what he means.  It;s been bent once.. to put it on.  You bend it again (back) .. in the same place.. to take it off.  When you put it on again, pick someplace that hasn't been bent yet.  You can do that at least once for sure.   It's what I have done in the past.

The whole folding lock tab thing is a real sore point with me. That system should have disappeared decades ago.
Virtually every high miles late model Bonnie that I put on the lift has a loose sprocket nut. Same with vintage Suzi-Qs.
I always blamed the previous person for not doing it right, until I started finding loose nuts on the sprockets I had installed.
Did a lot of research, and talked to some of the industry gods about the issue.
Here's what I found out:
Heavy equipment manufacturer Allis Chalmers saw this problem many decades ago. They finally figured out that it was the deformation of the captive washer that was allowing the nuts or bolts to loosen. Basically, if the washer is soft enough to bend easily, it's soft enough to squish under the repeated rubbing back and forth caused by acceleration and engine braking.
They just ditched that system, as did Honda. Some of the bike companies still use it.
Talked to a guy who built 200HP front row Ducs for AMA Superbike and asked him what he did.
Start by making sure the splines are clean. Then coat the splines with anti-seize so that no rust forms. Install the sprocket, then put a layer of anti-sieze between the sprocket and the lock tab. That allows the sprocket to not drag the washer back and forth with it as it moves on the splines.
Red Loctite on the nut, tighten the crap out of it, then fold over the tab in two places. After the tab is folded over, take a center punch and punch the washer against the nut in a few places. The idea is to make sure the washer travels with the nut.
I've used that system for a while. No problems.
Red Loctite breaks pretty easily with a decent impact gun.
-Armen