Alright, I got my head bolt drilled out. I'll tell you about that later. I am about to let that same machinist do my tensioner mod too. We pulled the case and removed the tensioner to inspect it.

We weren't quite settled on the exact specifications of the mod. For a long time, he was afraid to extend it much because he thought there would be too much pressure. But I could compress the spring into the eyelet end tube shaft with my thumb and I could put the thing together and compress it with my bare hands. I let him handle it then, and he said it wouldn't be too bad. He was also very doubtful about the necessity of the roll pin. He said that the chain would come together and be ready to break at that point. But as I'm writing, I just figured it out. The biggest thing that's for is for the first eyelet on a new chain. So if I buy a new chain, the roll pin will matter more? Probably?

Anyway.... Here's a question that might interest you that might never have been asked. Would it benefit me to shorten the spring? I seem to recall one person actually replacing the factory spring with a weaker one in order to reduce wear on the chain.

Any comments on the amount of compression? 2-3 teeth out on the shaft doesn't seem too bad. As long as it catches one tooth, it ought to work okay.

I'm going to do some final research tonight and take it to him in the morning to get the job done. He's going to leave for Florida Thursday, so I need to get this figured out tonight. I appreciate your feedback if you have any.


If Verslagen isn't interested in helping, I can respect that.  



Thanks,

Cheapy

Here is my 2 cents worth, or maybe worth a hay penny...
Look at a pic, judge it by the size of the original hole, is there one holes space between the two holes?

Thanks, Versy. I really appreciate your help. I was tempted to disagree on the spring thing, but I think I understand now. While shortening it will remove the length of spring to be compressed, which would give the impression of lightening the load, it cancels itself out when you consider the fact that each little bit of that spring compresses (or gives a little, and when you remove a piece, it can't compress as far as easily because there's not as much material left to give. Am I on track here?

If I have issues with this guy, I'll certainly send it your way.

Hey Verslagen, do you think the cheap chain they use in these things just hasn't been properly stretched or broken in? I gather you've driven your modded bike for a long time. Doesn't it still have the original chain?

cheapnewb24 wrote on 08/10/16 at 09:58:32:

New isn't stretched or broken in.
Cheap usually stretches or breaks.

So... you're broken shiny thing?  

verslagen1 wrote on 08/10/16 at 10:07:55:


You're saying I'm a broken shiny thing? Sounds about right... Well, at least I'm shiny!

What do you think? Did he do a good job? Is it safe and good to go? Seems like it's not rubbing quite as bad as it did before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKnrQpQAMh8&feature=youtu.be

I discovered that my clutch nut is a little loose I can wiggle it with my fingers. The lock tab is still bent up to hold it, though. Could that be causing any issues? It was getting dark, so it's pretty hard to see what's going on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TillY99Cxkw&feature=youtu.be



By the way, my clutch rod external measurement is approximately 12mm.

Got the excess ground down on that roll pin. Put it in. Recently I found the following photo in the Motorcycle Handyman download.

I used the old circlip, and I've noticed that there may be some concern about old circlips. Should I be concerned? Is this a worthwhile mod, or will the silicone peel off and stop up the engine?   Not sure I have the right type of RTV.