cheapnewb24 wrote on 08/09/16 at 13:53:45:We weren't quite settled on the exact specifications of the mod. For a long time, he was afraid to extend it much because he thought there would be too much pressure. But I could compress the spring into the eyelet end tube shaft with my thumb and I could put the thing together and compress it with my bare hands. I let him handle it then, and he said it wouldn't be too bad. He was also very doubtful about the necessity of the roll pin. He said that the chain would come together and be ready to break at that point.
Typically, at half the allowed chain stretch, the plunger is out 19mm [.748"]
So, to get full stretch add another hole. And yes at 19mm spacing, the chain will get real close to locking on itself. So you don't need that much, 5/8 is fine. And it will push the plunger back in to day 1.
Quote: But as I'm writing, I just figured it out. The biggest thing that's for is for the first eyelet on a new chain. So if I buy a new chain, the roll pin will matter more? Probably?
Grenades need a pin, if he doesn't want to do it, send it to me with $10 and it'll get done.
Quote:Anyway.... Here's a question that might interest you that might never have been asked. Would it benefit me to shorten the spring? I seem to recall one person actually replacing the factory spring with a weaker one in order to reduce wear on the chain.
So if you shorten the spring by a couple of coils, you remove the pretention, but as you compress the spring it is stiffer (less coils, same compression, get a degree and you'll understand)
So unless you can find a spring with the same number of coils, same length but smaller wire diameter, I don't think it's a benefit to shorten the spring.
Quote:Any comments on the amount of compression? 2-3 teeth out on the shaft doesn't seem too bad. As long as it catches one tooth, it ought to work okay.
As long as the pawl engages the plunger fully, no problem.