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Plug gap...... (Read 126 times)
raydawg
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Plug gap......
07/29/16 at 12:54:07
 
I admit, I don't really pay attention to the spec....
My bad.

It came to my attention inadvertently yesterday while out in my boat, an outboard, 2 stroke.
It runs great at first, but after starting and stopping numerous times to set and retrieve my crab traps, her performance started to deteriorate.
Die under idling or slow throttle, hard to restart, slow outta the hole.
I figgered it was in the fuel system, because when running she hums.

I looked up the spec and the plugs are suppose to be gapped at 0.9.
Mine where more like a 0.2 or 0.3.

I am guessing here this will lead to a weak burn, right, causing fouling and carbon build up?

I did the same install right out of the box on my savage too.
Now I notice what I think is too much black soot on the tailpipe opening.
I need to gap it I bet, right?
To what size?

Thanks

PS: please don't ask me if I'm an idiot. Asking such would only prove I'm not alone  Grin
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Dave
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #1 - 07/29/16 at 13:13:10
 
I am not sure your outboard engine issues are spark plug gap related....but it most likely would start easier if the gap was correct.  Two stroke engines can build up an excess of oil when the engine is not warmed up, and started repeatedly, or run at low rpm for extended periods.  The oil can settle out or condense, and then pool in a low spot. (This is a big problem for trials motorcycles and it is why you will hear them rev the engine to clean out the excess fuel/oil before making a high speed run up a steep hill....the excess oil can come up out of the bottom end when the throttle is opened and cause them some problems as the engine chokes on the oil).

When the gap is less than required the spark energy is reduced as the coil doesn't have to make as much energy before the spark jumps the gap.  This most likely would cause running problems under full throttle use.  The carbon build up is not related to the spark energy - but to the heat of the combustion process that keeps the plug insulator hot. Rich mixtures, lots of cold starts, lots of engine idling....all those things can make the plugs black.....especially in a 2 stroke.  Be sure to use "outboard" rated oil, as some of the general purpose 2 stroke oils just don't burn cleanly in a cool running outboard motor.

The Savage plug should be between 0.031" - 0.035".  The tailpipe will always be black and sooty - the ethanol laced fuel just seems to come out the exhaust pipe that way....even in a fuel injected motor.
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raydawg
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #2 - 07/29/16 at 13:38:21
 
Thank you Dave, as always, you are a great help!

Yes, I use Yamalube, about as good as you can buy.
I don't really understand about the pooling, where, how, but I already put in the new plugs, gapped to spec, and it fired up way easier.
I was thinking my idle was to low as well, but not now, as it seems a lot better, and I don't want to raise it to just put more pressure on the cluctchdog when shifting.
Not sure if this makes any difference, but it has electronic ignition box, which I am guessing, sensors, that try and correct any conditions or default to a safe mode when something could ruin the motor.
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #3 - 07/29/16 at 16:07:09
 
Raydawg, you might be running to much yamalube,but if I could  choose between cleaning or changing a spark plug or turning the motor into an anchor... I' d clean the plugs ,and reuse them.
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raydawg
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #4 - 07/29/16 at 17:13:24
 
batman wrote on 07/29/16 at 16:07:09:
Raydawg, you might be running to much yamalube,but if I could  choose between cleaning or changing a spark plug or turning the motor into an anchor... I' d clean the plugs ,and reuse them.


It's oil injection, which works off RPM's not a pre-mix.
But thank you for the reply!
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #5 - 07/30/16 at 10:54:15
 
From what I've seen of oil injection on bikes, it's much worse than premix when running at low speeds.  You speed up and put out a huge cloud of smoke until it burns off.
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #6 - 07/30/16 at 11:18:17
 
A plug is a gap that voltage has to jump.
The closer the gap, the less voltage is required to Make it jump.
So, wider is hotter. The spec for the gap is what the bikes electrical system will manage and it's needed to help keep the plug clean.

Just my best guesses, Dave can thumb it up or down.
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #7 - 07/30/16 at 13:53:49
 
I've always thought that a shorter spark is a hotter spark. The electrical system puts out whatever amount of voltage regardless of the plug gap. A short spark has more energy per unit of length. Am I correct?
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Re: Plug gap......ii
Reply #8 - 07/30/16 at 18:38:27
 
The coil builds up a magnetic field inside as a result of the electrical current flowing in from the primary side.  When that circuit is interrupted, the magnetic field has to go somewheere......and it goes out the spark plug wire.  The energy has to jump the gap at the spark plug...if the space between electrodes is small, then the voltage required is less - but it has a higher current flow.  If the gap is great....then the voltage is higher but the current is smaller.  They both use the same amount of energy - but the voltage and current are changed.  I do believe that in an electrical system that is operating correctly - the hottest spark occurs with the recommended gap...and it is a gap that makes a high voltage spark.

Some antique spark plugs had a little lever that would create an additional gap inside a clear tube at the top of the spark plug.  When you were having trouble starting the engine, you could flip the lever and it would make an additional gap for the spark to jump....and this was supposed to make the spark hotter and aid in starting the engine.

The spark does not keep the electrodes or the insulator clean - the combustion heat is retained in the porcelain insulator, and the longer the insulator the more heat is retained....that is what the "heat range" of the plug is established.
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #9 - 07/30/16 at 19:35:50
 
The spark does not keep the electrodes or the insulator clean - the combustion heat is retained in the porcelain insulator, and the longer the insulator the more heat is retained....that is what the "heat range" of the plug is established.


That's good information.. Thanks
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #10 - 07/30/16 at 19:42:06
 
think I remember a plug color post some time ago
coffee with cream is the best color??
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raydawg
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #11 - 07/31/16 at 16:01:25
 
From NGK:

Spark plug gap

Always check that the spark plug gap is compatible with the engine manufacturers specification. A gap that is too small means that the spark duration will be very quick and the spark will be thin and weak. The consequences of this may be bad starting and high exhaust emission levels. This will result in an increase in fuel consumption. If the gap is set too large, the ignition system will not be able to cope with the demands and a misfire situation will occur. Some wide gap spark plugs have a longer ground electrode to accommodate a wide gap setting. These must be used where specified, as opening up a standard plug to a wider gap setting may result in the electrodes not running parallel to each other. This could result in abnormal and premature electrode wear.

The re-gapping of fine wire spark plugs that have very small diameter platinum or iridium alloy electrodes is not recommended due to the risk of damaging the electrodes. Virtually all NGK spark plugs are set to the correct gap for the catalogue applications at the point of manufacture.
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Re: Plug gap......
Reply #12 - 08/01/16 at 17:41:40
 
But I would set a regular plug to the smallest end of scale .31 rather than .35 as the gap tends to widen over time due to electrode wear,and due to our low compression I don't think a hotter spark is needed.
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