justin_o_guy2 wrote on 07/17/16 at 17:54:50:


Uhh..Huh...Okay Justin

If I keep running into crazy high prices for a used head, it may be the wisest thing for me to have this professionally done.

Well, that's new.

Ohh, THAT'S new! Wisdom involved..
Taking advice from a couple of old guys? Maybe that's wisdom...



It makes sense that I should reserve my DIY-ness for things that are not so expensive.


Or, maybe approach the DIY from a Wise position.

You were told by me and Dave that a handheld drill would Not get it. That you HAVE a drill press and went with a handheld drill in an awkward position after being TOLD that Nobody could win that, and THEN tried to take comfort from the fact that nobody else could have won that,,

Dude,  BE CHEAP,, that's Fine! We All want to save money, but when you Ask for advice and Then ignore it and get in big trouble and THEN ask for advice to solve the problem YOU created?? Seriously? And No, I don't CARE about who was running the drill..
If I had  asked for help and done what you did I would be too embarrassed to ask for more help after ignoring the advice you got.
Especially after you Proved us correct.

Offensive? Rude? Inconsiderate?

Ask for help.
Ask someone to think through your problem.
Ask them to explain how to handle the problem.

Ignore the advice.
Watch the problem explode in your face.
Ask for help solving the problem YOU created.

Is that


Offensive? Rude? Inconsiderate?

No, I'm NOT the jerk.
I'm tired of you and your unwillingness to listen.
Goodluck..
If someone is willing to waste their time trying to help you, well, they are not paying attention.
I'm done with you.
You're gonna hafta DEMONSTRATE a willingness to listen before I waste time typing again.
New , innocent people are suffering from my lack of patience because of just how frustrating you have been.

I hope you grow up instead of continue to shrug and pretend you just are what you are and there is nothing you can do about it to be someone who is not so frustrating.. /


Dude, you HAVE a drill press, and were TOLD that without, at Least A drill press it was Impossible,, I'm totally pissed,,
Yeah,, your Dad decided,, uh huhh.

dude !  Just drill a new hole in the aluminum head and use the steel stud in the good hole as a guide on the good side and wing it on the broken side.    Long as you do both holes the Header clamp will still be just fine .   Don't forget to leave room for tapping the threads.   This is not difficult.

you could even do the good side first , then mount the header keeper on the new stud so you can mark (center punch) the broken side (to make sure you get exactly the right spot for the second hole.   Ain't nothing hard about it.  

If you insist on getting that broken easy-out removed --- good luck getting you "Supper Drill Bit" lined up on that one !  You'll be jigged up on a milling machine before you do.  



 

There is no good way to relocate and re-drill/tap the holes.  As the photo below shows....the holes are located in areas where the head has been designed to accept the studs....the other areas don't provide room for the holes or threads.

It is time that you realize you are in over your head.  You don't have the proper tools or experience to fix this broken bolt/stud, or to install a threaded insert if needed (There is very little room to drill the hole oversize and install an insert).  Your Craftsman drill press is not a milling machine, and you won't be able to keep the drill centered in the bolt.....and you most certainly won't be able to drill out a broken off EZ out.

You need to remove the engine from the frame, remove the head, and send it to a professional (or buy a used head).

So you have a drill press which means you can drill a straight hole in metal and you can make a accurate drill guide template.  Get a 3/8 inch or thicker piece of steel and drill two holes in it, one the size of the stud, the other the size of what ever super drill bit you are going to go after that busted stud with. Center the holes on the stud holes in the head. Take the good threaded hole and mount the plate on it as tight as you dare with the smaller hole centered over the busted stud. The idea is to make a template that bolts to the exhaust port which will keep the drill bit from wandering as you try drilling the busted stud out. Use lots of oil while drilling and keep the bit sharp.
 You will need to get that easyout removed first which can be a problem. Getting on it with a hardened punch or real small cold chistle and chipping at it has worked for me but is a real ball buster. A reverse threaded bit might be the best bet, I would buy a bunch cause you will break some bits no matter what happens. If you can get through the easyout it should work.
  Try starting with a smaller pilot hole and going up bigger increasing the smaller hole in the template as you go to keep the drill bit straight.
 Don't know what else to try except for taking it to a machine shop.
Luck with it

The easy out is driven in there. Tried to punch on it already. Could try some more. Probably gonna need a carbide drill bit. Turns out that I asked Dad about buying a #0 torch tip. I asked what he had on it. He told me a #6. Said it was a big tip. And he has the nerve to try something delicate with that?   Do you use a 20 pound sledgehammer to repair a wristwatch? Is it any wonder it didn't work?

You think drilling a plate will work better than using the keeper? Makes sense that it might keep the bit tighter in line.

Reverse-threaded drill bits???  Are those more or less likely to break when pieces of the easy out catches on them? Can you get them in carbide?

If I need professional help, then I need it, but I'm liable to give it one more try or two before I give up.

1st thing to do is get the easy out... out.
pay attention to that youtube that was posted... go get some pcb carbide drills