justin_o_guy2 wrote on 07/07/16 at 16:08:02:I wonder how consistent the strength and integrity of sintered metal parts are. And what can you imagine that You, I'm talking about You, because you're pretty up to speed on the clutch stuff, aren't you? So is there anything that you question having right?
The rod is pretty much everything that could be outta kilter, init?
Your thoughts seem a little jumbled. Are you trying to say, "What could you (meaning I) possibly think is wrong with your clutch because I assume you are well aware of the problems that could be encountered with the Savage clutch?" ???
Alright... Well... There are a few things to talk about here from what you've said and what I know and have read...
1. I assume (I could be wrong) the sintered piece that breaks is the shaft with the little cam lobe on it that presses the throwout rod.
Too much pressure and torque from heavy springs, combined with manufacturing defects causes them to break. Or is it the rod itself?
2. The rod itself comes in three different lengths to accommodate for clutch wear. As the clutch pack wears. the back plate that the rod presses against draws in towards the rod, necessitating a shorter rod... Or do I have it backwards? I know there was a big thread about this whole rod size confusion. Anyway, and inappropriate length of rod will cause the clutch to be out of its prime region of travel due to leverage changes on the outside and/or cam lobe contour on the inside of the case (probably the latter). Therefore, it won't be able to effectively move the plates their maximum distance. When this occurs, The clutch cannot be adjusted satisfactorily by conventional means. No matter which way you go, it will either slip too much or drag too much.
The target travel is signified by two marks on the engine case. My lever is still barely within this target. I doubt I have a problem in this area because I can still get satisfactory disengagement along with plenty of free-play. Therefore, I would assume the the throwout mechanism is not substantially getting in the way. 3. I broke my clutch adjuster.
This makes me want to put a lot of slop in the clutch in order to make sure the broken pieces are not holding the cable in substantial tension. I am not sure I had made that adjustment before my test. It still disengages good enough, but I'd like to get that fixed. I doubt this is the problem.
4. My oil needs to be changed within 1K miles. This could be causing grip problems. It's just Rotella 15w-40 with zddp additive. I cannot tell what any of the PO's did, though.
5. The engine may not have reached full operating temperature. The oil wasn't cold, but, maybe it wasn't hot enough. The reason for this is something my Dad mentioned or reminded me of a few days ago. Being a wet clutch, it may take a while to squeeze out the oil film and hook. (Reminds me of he Hele-Shaw clutch, which worked solely on the principle of an oil film-- theoretically-- without friction material.) Stronger springs should help in this regard, pressing out the oil film, but perhaps the material matters too. Maybe that Kevlar stuff can absorb and shear away the film instead of gliding on it like glass. However, the stickiness made me wonder whether it will slip awhile and then grab violently. Don't want that.
Pages: 
