Not that the bike is anywhere near done, but poking around the tech/reference page gave me some ideas. So:
Never liked the top triple tree. Would rather have something with pinch bolts. Don't have the time to make a new heavy duty one right now (and the CNC machine is still going back together). And the aftermarket ones are pretty pricey.
So, I bought a used lower tree real cheap on Ebay. Pressed out the stem, milled down the steering stops. Wiped off what was left of the pitted plating. Cut the stem down to the same height as the lower tree. Chased the 10x1.25 threads on the pinch bolts. Bored out the (now much shorter) stem to clear the top of the existing stem.
And ordered the adjustable preload 38mm fork caps. Hopefully they arrive soon, then I'll do the swap all at once.
Still on the fence as to whether to do the emulators now, or next winter. For now, I'll just change the fork oil. Prob the original from '96.
Maintaining the fantasy that the bike may run this summer  
Saw the notes on the starter gears and the torque limiting giz. Although mine is a '96, it has the simple dumb starter gears. Found a good used set on Ebay. Should be here in a day or two. A little twiddling and it should be a go.
Sent the rear hub to Woody's Wheel Works in Colorado. Just got a call that it arrived there. 18x2.5 aluminum rim, polished stainless spokes, tubeless tire voodoo treatment. Maybe 3 weeks. And at only the price of a good kidney or lung  
100/90-19 Michelin Pilot Activ is mounted on the stock front wheel. It'll do for now. Once I see how it feels, I'll decide whether to leave it at 19, or have one done in 18" Same treatment as the rear.
RYCA 2" longer shocks are on. Def picks up the back. Looks better already.
Replacement frame arrived. I'll do all the mods to the frame, then powder coat it and do the swap.
Intrigued by the Kawi belt pulley swap. Prob just do the front one as it'll raise the gearing a little more. Along with the larger (18") tire, that should be enough of an increase in gearing for such a gutless motor (I still want to be able to pass turtles).
Next week I start to work on the gas tank mounting. There is a hole in the top toward the front for a bolt/stud to the frame. Need to work on rubber mounts besides that. Maybe modify/move the frame rubber nubbin mounts?
Wire wheeled off the rust on the head pipe. Looking into the head pipe, I've never seen such a small diameter head pipe on a 650cc bike. I've seen bigger on a decent 250cc bike. But I guess it stays for now. Nice looking bends, kinda heavy, but supposedly they work well.
Ah well...

So, how does it run with the much larger diameter head pipe? What other mods?
thanks,
-Armen

So, the front end is OK for now. The preload adjustable caps bolted right on. Got them on Ebay. Cheap, fit well, and lighter than the steel ones they replace.
Amazing how flexy the forks are. Have to get a fork brace.
There was an article in Motorcyclist(?) in the early 80's called "Deslopping the Sliders" involving shimming up the fork bushings. I may do that to these beasts.
Sold my stock carb! Love the Marketplace. Using the 'spend it before you waste it' theory, I quickly ordered a front Kawi 454 25T pulley. This will pick up the gearing about 8%. And the wheel is bigger, so that will also make the gearing taller.
Woody's called, a little delay, but the rear wheel is moving along. When I hear that it is shipped, I'll order a 120 Pilot Activ to match the 100/90 Activ front. For now, the rear will be tubeless, and the stock front wheel will have a tube.
Bought a used front wheel to mount the new tire on. The bike had a 3.5 front tire, and no fender. Bought a used fender, but the tire doesn't clear. Hence, the 100/90 tire. Tossed the 3.50 tire and tube, unscrewed the spoke nipples, yanked the spokes, and tossed everything except the hub. I'll wipe off that ridge, then sand and polish the beast. Once I decide what size front wheel I like, off it'll go to Woody's.
Removed the front brake caliper. Looked like it was stored in a septic tank near a nuclear waste facility. Much soaking (Simple Green) and scrubbing and scraping and it looks downright shiny!
Only 4 pieces of rubber in the whole gag. Bought all 4 and a new bleeder nipple from Bike Bandit. Scraped off the crud, polished the piston, chased all the threads, and wire brushed the corroded parts.
Most aggressive pads I could find are the EBC semi-sintered. I'll reassemble the whole mess and install the pads.
New 12mm Grimeca master cylinder for the 7/8" clip-ons. Feels like the right size. Made up a steel braided brake line with SS fittings and banjo bolts.
Ah well.
-Armen