+1 for look pretty.

A couple of the Enfield guys made a replacement airbox lid for the Continental GT. The old element sat inside the airbox and was only about 1/2" from the injector inlet. The new lid situates the element outside the airbox, in the new lid. So we end up with an empty airbox (apart from a velocity stack). It makes a noticeable difference. No one has dyno'd it to see how much. Another guy put a massive K&N pod on his and reported similar results.

I like the sound of the cone air intake

Yeah my K&N is much better than that snorkel. lol

If you want performance velocity stack is the way to go, and the more surface area on your filter.. the easier it flows. Common sense I guess  
Some of the craziest tuning Ive seen on included CNC intakes, CNC polished carb inlet, custom billet CNC velocity stack, dial a jet, and massive oversized foam filters. Velocity length influences the power band on thumpers. short for top end power I think   and longer for bottom end.. someplace in between for a balance is what you want.
Ive always thought 2 layer foam filters are the best for high end performance but I don't really have any proof.. only weak anecdotal evidence.

Some engines also like a "step" inside the intake I don't know why but it works well with some thumpers. Rough intake ports help with fuel atomization so even if you port it out leaving it rough keeps things flowing and prevents drip.

For 2 stroke foam filters are amazing.. especially if they get a little wet with gas.

For the savage I think the airbox is a pile of crap lol. A tuned velocity stack and oversized filter would be much better than that rubber intake boot with a cone filter. I see some dudes on here with those chinchongyoulicklongdingdong china fleabay filters.. dear god those are crap.. you can see right through the filer mesh.. Ive used one on a small engine and it only filters out birds and small babys.. Also you can throw on one of those mesh covers to help prevent water/rain from pulling dirt into the filter. Pretty sweet I think lol

I'm just rambling..  

Well....I kinda' believe that "tuning" an intake scientifically is most likely a bit beyond what most of us are capable of doing.

That doesn't mean that we can't avoid things that hurt performance, and attempt to do the things that help to improve it.

This air filter stuck on the back of the carb - has to limit the performance.  The air flow into the carb is not going to be efficient, as the air flow has to make a sudden 90 degree turn.  At low throttle settings it most likely works just fine....at full throttle most likely is restrictive and disruptive to the air flow.





The small cone filters are also likely not to help much at high rpm.  And as Witchdocter stated above.....don't buy a cheap Chinese knock off...especially the ones with the step in the rubber flange that blocks the vent at the top of the carb inlet.  Several members have installed them and had all kind of trouble - and it turns out the filter is blocking that oval vent and making the carb do really weird things.





If you want a cone filter....buy a good one that is as large and long as you can fit on the bike.  And if you can fit a tube between the carb and filter....that will help to stabilize the air flow as well - the length of the tube is the "tuning" part this thread is about, and you could try different lengths and see how it affects the performance.




I used a large foam filter, and I used as much of the stock intake tube as I could fit.

batman wrote on 05/27/16 at 06:23:38:


I don't believe the stock intake is nearly that long....I cut the stock rubber tube just about in half.  As a guess, I believe the stock rubber boot/tube is about 5" long.

I also wonder if any of the length of the foam filter acts as a part of the plenum?

My pipe has never turned.  I jetted by bike with a fuel/air meter installed, and I the fuel/air meter allowed me to adjust the jets more precisely than I could have done by ear/feel.  I am confident my bike runs well, and does not have any bad habits (unlike the rider).

That number ,9 7/8 is the total length of the intake from the valves to filter box ,which includes the carb.Another measurement that I failed to speak about was that the filter should stand off the end of the tube  40mm,Gizzo said the Enfields ran better when the filter was moved from1/2 inch to outside their new custom air boxes ,leaving a much larger space between the filter and intake tube,you can't do this with a cone , the Enfield guys knew what they were doing.They did a better job than the factory.   JOG,velocity and pressure are inversely  proportional ,that means the wave hits the end of tube the wave spreads out in the box(loss of velocity)and therefore does pressurize the air box.As the exhaust valves close and the piston moves downward ,the  pressure wave helping to send air through the carb.The carb being smaller further increases velocity (causing a pressure drop, or vacuum)which pulls fuel from the jets. We might then look at the piston it's moving down,where is the air under going?Through the huff tube to further pressurize the air box,but not with a cone filter.