Most engine manuals recommend wrist pin clearances between .0008 and .0010-inch for conventional engines; my advice is to run .0020 to .0022-inch wrist pin clearance in a serious drag racing engine.
http://rehermorrison.com/tech-talk-49-wrist-pins-and-unintended-consequences/If you're able to call it sloppy, it's probably not in spec.
It's not Just the clearance, is the hole round?
Are the piston holes the same size and shape?
Is the connecting rod hole the same size on both sides?
How much slop in the pin and con rod? Can you tilt it?
Running a micrometer on each end and center and the length between end and center, how is the wear?
Dial calipers are better than nothing, micrometer is better.
The wrist pins job is to stop the piston at the top of the exhaust stroke and drag it down for the intake stroke. If it's worn in the piston/ pin/ rod areas, it's Gonna be noisy on that stroke.
When it gets to the bottom of the intake stroke, it's gotta stop the piston and head into the compression stroke. Worn holes and pin equals Clack. Turning around at the top of compression, no clack, turning around at the end of the power stroke, no clack,
Get the crank poking the rod up as far as possible and play with it. Feel for slacif you pull or push. Lean it left and right, gently, don't Try to wreck the bearing. Twist, push, pull, gilt.
Without knowing How loose the wrist pin is, nobody can know if it's okay