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2000 Savage clanking noise (Read 1148 times)
kojones
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #30 -
05/10/16 at 14:02:58
Dave wrote
on 05/10/16 at 13:31:30:
If it was my bike, and considering the shady history of the bike....I would most likely take the engine out of the frame, take the top end apart and see what stuff looks like.
Once the head is off and you can see the cam/rockers/head and valves look like. If nothing looks bad up there (and you know what to look for), I would take the cylinder off and inspect the piston/cylinder/rod/crank.
If this is a bike you are going to keep and ride and put some miles on....it is a worthwhile investment of time and money to have the engine put back together and reliable. You can decide what parts the bike needs to become reliable again.....worn out or damaged parts should be replaced.
Yeah, that will be the next step. Unfortunately I don't now have a suitable garage or tools to do a major engine rebuild, I have to move it (drive) a few hundred kilometers to do that. Hope it will take me there...
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #31 -
05/10/16 at 15:07:07
Well, if it doesn't, at least finding the problem won't be hard.
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verslagen1
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #32 -
05/10/16 at 15:57:27
kojones wrote
on 05/10/16 at 13:51:33:
The timing is correct AFAIK, the marks on the cam shaft end were vertical when the left side plug hole mark was lined up with the crank shaft marking.
Is this what you mean by vertical?
Most people call this horizontal... but, to each his own.
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oldNslow
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #33 -
05/10/16 at 16:46:03
This may be a long shot but I remember a bike that was in a shop where I worked for a short time many years ago. A big Kawasaki two stroke single. Had a knock that we couldn't diagnose. We had that motor apart a couple of times without finding the source of the noise. Finally one of the guys in the shop discovered a tiny piece of metal stuck to one of the teeth on the primary drive ( crankshaft) gear, about halfway down the tooth. Every time a tooth on the Driven( back of the clutch) gear meshed with that tooth he heard a tiny little "click" when he was turning the engine by hand. When the bike was running that "click" was a loud "knock" . He pried the hunk of metal out of there with a screwdriver. No more knock.
Quote:
There has been oil every time I've checked and the cam and rockers were fine, but it might be that they've been replaced with the cam chain
as the chain is clearly quite new
as the tensioner isn't out that much.
Might be worth a look. It sounds like whoever was in your motor before you wasn't real careful, and if he did replace the cam chain he was working in that area.
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Savageman
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #34 -
05/10/16 at 17:35:37
May I butt in again with my 2 bits worth of knowledge. You said the cam mark was vertical when the crank mark lined up? Ah that would be a problem the cam marks need to be horizontal and line up with the top of the bearing.
Use the stethoscope to find and locate the knock. The top end is suspect. There is a oring that controls oil flow to the top end and if it's not there or that galley is blocked it won't push enough oil up to the cam/ valvetrain.
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kojones
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #35 -
05/10/16 at 23:54:05
verslagen1 wrote
on 05/10/16 at 15:57:27:
kojones wrote
on 05/10/16 at 13:51:33:
The timing is correct AFAIK, the marks on the cam shaft end were vertical when the left side plug hole mark was lined up with the crank shaft marking.
Is this what you mean by vertical?
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/cam_line_up.JPG
Most people call this horizontal... but, to each his own.
Yes, I really ment horizontal
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kojones
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #36 -
05/11/16 at 00:04:02
Savageman wrote
on 05/10/16 at 17:35:37:
May I butt in again with my 2 bits worth of knowledge. You said the cam mark was vertical when the crank mark lined up? Ah that would be a problem the cam marks need to be horizontal and line up with the top of the bearing.
Use the stethoscope to find and locate the knock. The top end is suspect. There is a oring that controls oil flow to the top end and if it's not there or that galley is blocked it won't push enough oil up to the cam/ valvetrain.
The O-ring is there, I installed a brand new one when I reassembled the head cover.
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kojones
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #37 -
05/11/16 at 00:08:34
oldNslow wrote
on 05/10/16 at 16:46:03:
This may be a long shot but I remember a bike that was in a shop where I worked for a short time many years ago. A big Kawasaki two stroke single. Had a knock that we couldn't diagnose. We had that motor apart a couple of times without finding the source of the noise. Finally one of the guys in the shop discovered a tiny piece of metal stuck to one of the teeth on the primary drive ( crankshaft) gear, about halfway down the tooth. Every time a tooth on the Driven( back of the clutch) gear meshed with that tooth he heard a tiny little "click" when he was turning the engine by hand. When the bike was running that "click" was a loud "knock" . He pried the hunk of metal out of there with a screwdriver. No more knock.
Quote:
There has been oil every time I've checked and the cam and rockers were fine, but it might be that they've been replaced with the cam chain
as the chain is clearly quite new
as the tensioner isn't out that much.
Might be worth a look. It sounds like whoever was in your motor before you wasn't real careful, and if he did replace the cam chain he was working in that area.
That came in mind at very early stages, a friend rotated the engine while I was checking what happens at the clutch side. Couldn't see or hear anything that might have caused it.
But inside the magneto rotor was a lump of aluminium, about the size of a small pinkie tip.
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Dave
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #38 -
05/11/16 at 04:02:21
If you have hunks of aluminum inside your engine.....it is definitely time to take it apart and see what is going on.
There is nothing inside the engine that should be flaking off aluminum pieces. The cam is the only thing that uses the aluminum as a bearing surface, and everything else has a bearing to ride in.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #39 -
05/11/16 at 04:43:59
t inside the magneto rotor was a lump of aluminium, about the size of a small pinkie tip.
Worth knowing, and finding where it came from might help.
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Gary_in_NJ
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #40 -
05/11/16 at 05:35:26
But inside the magneto rotor was a lump of aluminium, about the size of a small pinkie tip. [/quote]
Time for a tear-down. Or go find an unloved beater and use the engine out of it.
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kojones
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #41 -
05/11/16 at 08:28:38
justin_o_guy2 wrote
on 05/11/16 at 04:43:59:
t inside the magneto rotor was a lump of aluminium, about the size of a small pinkie tip.
Worth knowing, and finding where it came from might help.
I'm quite sure it's from the clutch cover, it has a crack that has been welded. Looks like someone didn't want to use any silicone gasket and tried to tighten that one bolt a bit too much to get rid off an oil leak...
I removed the rotor, the bolt and rotor itself were quite hard to remove. Seems like the key isn't that easy to get off, either...
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kojones
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #42 -
05/11/16 at 08:35:16
In the picture, the gears 1 and 3, are they supposed to be in that order, the limiter assy next to the starter motor? I had them the other way around. I think that there was also that one spacer missing...
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Dave
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #43 -
05/11/16 at 08:41:23
No....the torque limiter is in the middle.....the plain gear is nearest the starter.
The torque limiter has a spacer/washer on both sides (inside/outside), the other gear has none.
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Savageman
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Re: 2000 Savage clanking noise
Reply #44 -
05/11/16 at 14:00:40
You need a complete engine tear down to find out what is wearing. All that material is churning through the oil galleys and causing other bearing surfaces to wear. And check out the top end con rod bearing.
Too many variables in it now to pinpoint the cause without a tear down. Good Luck with it and post results.
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