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Battery Change Steps (Read 258 times)
Spedie
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Battery Change Steps
04/28/16 at 06:09:38
 
I own a 2013 S40.  It has 2100 miles on it. I bought it used at just over 500 miles nearly two years ago. I had the 600 mile service done at a Suzuki dealer.

I own a trickle charger and have not been using it like I should lately.  I last rode the bike about a month ago for a good 150 miles and it was fine.  It has nearly a full tank of gas because I filled it up right before I parked it.

I went out yesterday to start her up and it turned a time or two, then nothing.  I put it on the trickle charger overnight. I tried again this morning.  The lights come on but when I go to start it...nothing.  Yes, I made sure the right hand switch was not in the "kill position".  The kickstand was up. The bike was in first gear and I had the clutch engaged.

I noticed this morning that as soon as I tried to start it that the lights immediately dimmed greatly and stayed that way.

I took off the seat.  I opened the accessory box and removed it to expose the battery. I have not removed the battery until I gain some knowledge as I don't want to pull on any wire and make things worse.

I checked the white box that houses the 20 amp fuse and both fuses in there looks good.

The battery is original.  I am headed off to the store to get a new battery.

I do not have much experience changing batteries out in this bike. It seems to me that the negative wire will be hard to get to. I can see the red, positive wire at the top of the battery.

Any suggestions for battery removal?  If the new battery doesn't work (I'll charge it up first) then I will post and ask what I should check next.

I have all basic tools but I do not own a meter.

English is my primary language.  I bought the bike in Missouri and had it shipped to southern Texas.  The bike has been in Texas since November 2015. The bike has always been garaged while in my possession. It looks like a brand new bike. I have made no modifications mechanically.  I have added only a windshield.
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jajke
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #1 - 04/28/16 at 06:42:59
 
I have a 2002 model and the repair manual recommends disconnecting the Negative first and then the Positive; to reconnect do it in reverse order: Positive first then Negative.
Hope this helps!
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Jaime Ajke
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #2 - 04/28/16 at 06:56:39
 
It seems that I cannot reach the negative lead without first pulling the battery out.  Is it OK to go ahead and pull it out before disconnecting the negative?

I will disconnect positive last.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #3 - 04/28/16 at 07:14:46
 
If it's Truly the OEM battery, then, yeah, I wouldn't even mess with testing it. It's probably very low on water, and it's Old.
Consider the glass mat type. Big Crank was the hot ticket a few years ago, notvsure what the latest and greatest is today.
Recommend you shop around. And be sure to get one with the proper orientation of the terminals.

Trickle chargers/float chargers won't raise the dead.
I've recently revived a battery that was seriously dead..
Hit it with a charger, 8 amp,took an hour for i t to even start taking a charge. I keep a volt meter on the connections, unplug the charger and check the battery voltage. Then, hook up the battery tester, hit the button, load the battery, just for a second..

Charge it up.
Rinse and repeat.
It took quite a few hours, but, it's working, it's on a mower and it was much neglected.

The battery tester is under twenty bucks at harbor freight.
Volt meter is sometimes free with purchase, and not exactly the best, but, good enough for messing with a battery.

As old as yours is, naaah.. time for a new one.

A mower battery can fail and I'm not exactly stranded.
I always kept a healthy battery on the bike. That's just not a place for cutting corners.
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verslagen1
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #4 - 04/28/16 at 07:40:57
 
look again, you should be able to get to the neg term from the left side.
May take a long screwdriver.
May have to take the seat and left cover off.
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Art Webb
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #5 - 04/28/16 at 07:54:02
 
the reason for removing the neg first is because it provides ground for the bike
if you remove pos first and your wrench touches metal it may short the system and fry the battery, maybe lightly weld your wrench to the metal you touched, and blow a fuse or three
other than that, removing pos first has no consequence
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pam
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #6 - 04/28/16 at 07:54:48
 
Use and off set screwdriver ... thats what i did ,,
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #7 - 04/28/16 at 08:10:26
 
IIRC I was able to move the cover to the left just enough to get a screwdriver in on the connection on the right s i de.
Ideally, negative is removed first, connected last.
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Serowbot
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #8 - 04/28/16 at 08:51:30
 
Yup, remove the negative first...unless you want things to get sparky... Shocked
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Ludicrous Speed !... ... Huh...
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #9 - 04/28/16 at 09:03:22
 
And sparks near a battery can get ugly, real ugly and OMG Fast.
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verslagen1
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #10 - 04/28/16 at 09:13:03
 
In a pinch, put tubing on the tool you're using to prevent shorts.
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #11 - 04/28/16 at 10:08:00
 
I made the sparky mistake once  Wink ...luckily I didn't hurt anything, but the screw driver has looked a little funky ever since  Grin
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #12 - 04/28/16 at 10:15:43
 
I have the battery out of the bike.  The battery that was on there was the type you must put distilled water in.  All cells were dry. I had no idea to check this once in awhile.  It was several steps to get that blasted battery free from the location.

I bought a new battery after getting the part number and it is an exact match to my original battery. It is outside on a rubber mat charging on the trickle charger.  It is the sealed water kind.

I got the top of the battery box off on the left hand side to expose the negative lead. I had to buy a number 1 GearWrench to get it off. I don't know why they call this tool such a thing. The gear wrench is basically a phillips on one end and a straight screwdriver on the other - with a 90 degree bend on both ends.  It came in a two pack with different sizes. I was able to use the smaller one to get that blasted screw out of the top left side of the top part of the battery box.

After that, I was able to disconnect and free up the negative lead and slide the battery out - after disconnecting the positive before moving the battery.

I removed both 20 amp fuses before touching the battery - to keep them from blowing while I reinstall if I do something stupid.

I hope this thread helps someone in the future.

I will report back with any issues once the charged battery is hooked up.

Thank you everyone!  I am a total newbie with this bike - although I owned a Savage back in the 80's.

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Kris01
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #13 - 04/28/16 at 12:17:31
 
My '08 is running the stock battery and I have no problems with it. Do I need to be checking the water in it or is it sealed? You've got me worried now! I don't want to be stranded!   Huh
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Re: Battery Change Steps
Reply #14 - 04/28/16 at 12:22:09
 
Kris01:  I would definitely check your battery out. I don't know if it is just the newer bikes (mine is a 2013) that has the crappy battery as stock.

I read today that most motorcycle batteries don't last more than 2 or 3 years.  However, there are exceptions to every rule.
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