That's gonna fall( no pun intended ) in the
I've never heard that one before
category.
I don't know that answer.
I am curious about what your broom weighs, though.

They just screw in.  Go to Bikebandit.com or some similar site and look it up in the OEM parts section for the cylinder.  They are about $8 apiece so two of them won't break the  bank.  However, if you want to straighten them it is not a big deal unless they are bent more than a few degrees or they are bent at the threads or at the point where the threads end and the smooth shank begins.

Straightening them is easy and you don't need a dial indicator to get them straight enough.  BUT, when they are bent and you bend it back again you are doing a little bit of "work hardening".  On the smooth shank that's not much of a problem but it might be at the threads. The threads already make a stress point with their sharp V cuts into the stud body and a sometimes they break there, or weaken and break later, like maybe when you torque them down.  

I've straightened lots of fasteners and if the angle of the bend is shallow and the steel is a good it usually works.  But I would never do it to something that is critical to safety.

I am one cheap SOB, I straighten nails and drill bits and bolts.
But I would not straighten those. A problem there is gonna be a lot worse than the cost of new. Before you order, pull all of them, roll them on a known flat something.. I keep a thick piece of glass, because I straighten stuff, check all of them out.
I'd be looking closely at the case, where they go in.
Any distortion needs to be carefully worked flat. A good file.
Don't let stuff get in the engine.

A straight edge is your friend.

Pull them, roll them, see. If it's not visible without rolling, then it's not hurt, but if it's not Straight, then when you are torquing it, how much of the clamping force pulling it straight? Will it slowly yield to the tension and relieve some of the clamping force?
Sometimes saving money today costs more tomorrow.
I'm cheap, but if there is any question about the quality of a critical element that replacing costs so little, compared to having to go back, new head gasket, and then the bolts you should have replaced?

And, take a bolt to the industrial supply house, the one that supplies the hardware stores in town. It's not gonna be eight bucks. Probably not three.
It's not That special of a bolt. I would be surprised if it's not just a grade eight.

Some places spec a bolt be oiled before torque, some, I think, say clean and dry. If it's supposed to be lubed, and since it's steel in aluminum, I expect it is, make sure you have the hole cleaned out and don't let it get oil in it. You Can screw down onto a puddle of oil and it can stop the bolt. Just oil the bolt, wipe around with fingers.

Well, in that case, eight bucks isn't a ripoff.
That's why I carry one in. If it's not the same, it's Not the same.
Might save money by trying.

thanks for all the advise... id like to get back to this project sometime this spring...